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Tool Organizers - Explore Your Options

9/17/2019

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What are your  Tool Organizer Options and what might work best in your shop?

There are 6 popular types of tool organizers... 7 if  you count the pile of tools on your workbench ;-)
The following poll was taken in the Shop Hacks Facebook group regarding which system you  like the best...
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I was a little surprised about how much French cleats came out ahead of the rest of the options combined, but I understand why.    I'll start with some pictures of each of the popular DIY options then we will get into  which ones work best for different situations.  At the end of the article I'll show you some of the systems available that you can purchase ready-made.

Note... 
Don't miss next week's article because I will introduce a new  organization  product that you can use to Build  YOUR   Space!  I'm excited to unveil this innovative but simple and inexpensive Shop Hacks system to all of you!   I've improved on an already great system and I'll offer it in  a package  that takes   the hassle out of organizing    your workshop!  Stay tuned...
French Cleats -   everything on my tool wall is hanging on a french cleat.  I like them because they make it very easy to evolve my tool wall as my workflow and needs change.  It is also cheaper and more versatile than any other system.  French cleats  are really the most versatile option because you can still use all of the other options on a French cleat wall.  You can hang cabinets or drawer modules, shelves  or even sections of pegboard is you want to.
Pictures of Shop Hacks Facebook Group members French Cleat Setups
Pegboard is the next most popular option.  That's understandable since pegboard is readily available, is relatively cheap, has a wide variety of accessories available and has been around since our grandfathers were working in their shops.

The photos below were submitted by members of the Shop Hacks Facebook group.    Particularly interesting is  Mike Gallucci's  blue powder coated metal pegboard workbench design.  Great job Mike and thanks for sharing your innovative creations with the group!
Slat Walls  show up from time to time and they are just as versatile as French cleat walls but they are not nearly as popular for some reason.  I believe they are more popular in Europe than in the US.    There are a number of very nice accessories available for slat walls.
Shelves, Drawers, and Cabinets -    I would venture to guess that 99% of us use some combination of these three in our shops.   They are ubiquitous and readily available at any big box store in both ready-made and DIY options.  They are the default choice if you don't want to spend  your energy trying to make your shop as efficient as it can be.  However they are horribly inefficient compared to open tool storage and tend to become dumping grounds and hoarding areas where tools and materials go to die.

The Shop Hacks Philosophy -
Never put  frequently used tools or materials in a drawer or cabinet or on a shelf.  Use open tool storage within arms reach of each of your work areas and you will spend much less time walking, sorting, opening, closing and moving things around and more time making, fixing and building.


For more about how to organize your tools without feeling overwhelmed, check out these articles... 
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tool-organization-how-to-organize-your-tools-without-feeling-overwhelmed.html

​workshop-organization-how-to-organize-your-materials-and-hardware-without-feeling-overwhelmed.html

I ran a quick time study the other day to see how much time I saved by locating my frequently used tools within arms reach compared to where I used to store them - in a toolbox.   It took me 3 seconds to grab a tool, touch the counter and put it back using my french cleat tool holder located next to my main work area.  It took me 30 seconds to walk to the toolbox, open the drawer, find the tool and grab it, close the drawer, walk back then repeat the process to put the tool back.  I'll let you do the math but I estimate that I buy back between 40 and 80 hours of project time EACH YEAR by having my tools in the open and within arms reach.  You can organize all of your frequently used tools and materials in less than 80 hours of work so, IMO, it is a no-brainier to use open tool storage.

One caveat... Open tool storage requires you to work on your dust collection first.  Without effective dust collection and air filtration you will always have a film of dust on everything that is out in the open.  The Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System will take care of most of the fine dust that settles  on your tools after your work session is over but not everything.    In future articles I'll show you how to  achieve near 100% efficient dust collection on all of your  tools (under 2 hp) with just a cheap shop vac.  I've proved my methods using laser particle counter testing.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Each System
The following table is my subjective analysis of each system but  think about it and decide for yourself if you think using open tool storage is worth the time it will save you over the years.  Keep in mind that French cleat and slat walls may be used with all of the other systems which makes them universally compatible.    I.E. you can hang cabinets, drawers and shelves using French cleats or slats.
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How to Build A French Cleat Wall
I'll go into this in more detail next week but here's the general idea.  None of this is set in stone so  feel free to vary any of these dimensions as you wish.

Cut up a sheet of 3/4" birch  or Baltic birch plywood into 3" tall strips with a 45 degree bevel on one side.  This will give you 15 cleats @ 8' long.  That's about  $2.33 per 10' of cleat using birch plywood.  Birch plywood is not nearly as tough as Baltic birch but it works.  You can even use pine, poplar or hardwoods if you are sure you have access to wood that will not warp over time.   I hang 40# material organizers on 1/2" Birch plywood and they have held up fine using 2 screws every 8".  I suggest using 3/4" material so you don't have to worry about the cleat pulling away from the wall if you can only secure it every 16" or more.  The photos below show a 1/2" cleat but I suggest using 3/4".

Below you can see tool holders, box/cabinet holders, and a  French cleat shelf bracket.    The variations are as endless as your imagination but this should give you a good feel for how you can use French cleats to organize tools.    Make sure you don't miss next week's article where I will introduce a  new Shop Hacks product that will make building your own tool holders much simpler and faster so you can focus more time making, building and fixing and less time organizing.
That should give you  some great ideas to help you Build YOUR Space.  Next week   I'll show you more ways to implement French cleats and introduce a great new Shop Hacks product that will make the task much faster and easier for you.

Feel free to email me with questions, ideas or comments.  I'm always interested in hearing what you  are interested in so don't be shy.  

Check out  other popular Shop Hacks Newsletters...
  • How to build your own    air filtration system that beats  TWO Powermatic PM1200 systems
  • How to  NEVER have to clean or change your shop vac filter again
  • DIY Mobile Tool Base with Simple DIY Hydraulic Lifts
  • How to organize your tools without feeling overwhelmed
  • How to organize your materials and hardware without feeling overwhelmed
  • ​How to build an 8-slot drill organizer with a ergonomic charging station shelf
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Build   YOUR   Space   with  these   Shop Hacks  products...
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4 Comments

Build Article - Drill Organizer with Angled Charger Shelf

9/13/2019

3 Comments

 
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We've seen a number of drill/charger organizing stations over the past year on the Shop Hacks Facebook Group, but this one, designed by Shop Hacks member  Tim Key, captured a lot of attention.    It includes three useful features.
  1. A simple method to organize 8 drills and drivers
  2. A shelf  for misc. storage
  3. An angled shelf with a retainer lip to provide a line of sight and easy access to your battery chargers.
After seeing the response from the Shop Hacks Facebook Group to Tim's design,  I approached him with the idea to develop a set of plans for this project to offer to Shop Hacks members.  In exchange I would split the profits with him for as long as his plans sell on the site.    Tim said he was interested and he jumped right in.   
Let's Get Started Building YOUR Space!
The first step is to break down your material per the following cut sheet.  Order of cuts and specific dimensions are listed in the plans.  Everything is based on 3/4" sheet stock.  Tim used painted plywood  and it turned out great.  You can use any 3/4" sheet stock such as melamine, particle board, MDF or your preferred material.  I like to use melamine.  With edge banding it has a neat look and the light color has a way of making the shop much brighter once you start covering the walls with more and more white accessories.  Baltic birch always looks great too no matter what you make with it.  You can order 4x8x3/4 sheets of Baltic Birch through Menards if you have one local or your local lumber yard probably has it available. 

Note:   Most sheet stock doesn't come in exactly 3/4" thickness.  It can vary from 0.680" to 0.780" so make sure you measure the stock you use and adjust the dimensions outlined in the plans accordingly.

If you would like to save  time and make this build as simple as possible, you can support more content like this by purchasing   plans    for $4.95.  The plans include the cut sheets, detailed dimensioned drawings, and tools and materials lists for this project.    Shop Hacks is only sustainable through the generous support of those who  purchase plans and hardware kits and through affiliate link income.
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SHOP HACK: 
Write each part number on a piece of tape and stick them to each piece so they are easier to keep track of later

Cut  Dados
Next, cut  the individual features into each piece.  The plans include detailed drawings as well as 3D assembly and cross section views to make this step very simple.

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There are many ways to cut dados.  I used a table saw and a Freud 6” x 10T Pro Dado Set (SD206).  Another popular option would be to use a router and jig    (video link). 
 
Cut all of the dadoes to half the material thickness.  The grooves are  3/8” deep if you use ¾” material.    If you use a material thickness other than ¾” exactly then adjust your cuts accordingly.
Assembly
If you plan to paint your drill organizer, it is best to do so prior to assembly.  At least all the interior parts.  Avoid painting the dado and rabbet cuts or you may have a hard time getting it to assemble flush.  I got a little paint in them but was still able to get flush joints in my assembly.
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Bottom Shelf and Hangers
Flip the bottom shelf upside down and flush the front against a straightedge that is at least ¾” thick.  You want it to be easy to flush the front of the hangers with the front edge of the bottom shelf.
I only glued the vertical hangers into place.  I didn’t use any brad nails or screws.  I glued and brad nailed the hanger bottoms with 1 ¼” brads.  Get them all glued in and then clamp it down as best you can.  I used another board and some weights and left it overnight.
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Side Panels, Back Plate, and Shelves
This was the trickiest part of the build.  My wife helped spread the glue quickly and helped hold parts together until I could get it into clamps.  I used the following assembly process
 
  1. Lay the back plate flat on the table.  I clamped a 24” x 16” square to my table to help keep everything square.
  2. Glue the dado joints on the back plate and insert the shelves.
  3. Glue the dado and rabbet of one side panel and work it into the shelves and back plate.
  4. Glue the dado joints and rabbet on the other side panel and work it into the shelves and back plate.
  5. The picture below shows how I set my clamps.  I used 1 ¼” brad nails along all of the joints to help hold things in place.  After an hour or so, take the clamps off and it should be solid (if you used brad nails).  If you only used glue, let it set for several hours before removing the clamps.
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Install the angled shelf lip on the top shelf.  Flush the straight edge of the lip with the front edge of the charging station.  Use 1 ¼” brad nails along the top flat area of the lip.  There is no need to glue this in, but you can if you desire.  This component is to keep the chargers from slipping off the angled shelf.  There should not be a lot of force against it.

To install the angled shelf, I used a DEWALT DWHT46031 Aluminum 7-inch Premium Rafter Square behind the shelf to hold the shelf at the correct angle while flushed the front edge up against the edge of the lip.  I used 5/8” brad nails along the length of the angled shelf and the used 1 ¼” brad nails on the sides to maintain the angle of the shelf.  There is no need to use glue on this shelf.

Install the two end rail hangers.  Glue the rabbet joints and use 1 ¼” brad nails to secure them in place.  
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French Cleat Hangers
If you aren't using French cleat hangers to  secure your tool holders to the wall, this may be a great time to get started.  French cleats are a very simple method to hang anything on the wall.    It's a very simple system.  Just attach a cleat with a 45 degree bevel to the  top of the organizer as shown in the figure below.  Attach a brace of the same thickness to the bottom of the organizer.  Then, attach another cleat with a 45 degree bevel to the wall with the bevel facing up.  Now you can hang any tool holder on the wall cleat which allows you to rearrange your tool holders as  you are working through your preferred workflow.

Install the French cleat flush with the top of the charging station using glue and 1 ¼” brad nails.  Attach the mating cleat (not shown) to the wall using screws at the height you wish to hang it. 
 
The bottom board keeps the charging station square to the wall.  Use glue and 1 ¼” brad nails to secure it to the charging station.
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The Power Outlet
Cut a hole in the side panel on whatever side of the unit makes sense for your installation.  I cut a 1 ½” hole.   It needs to be large enough so that the wall plug can pass through.
 
I used double sided tape to attach the power strip to the charging station.  The paint would not allow hot glue to adhere to the station.  ​

Now you have a nice looking drill organizer that you can enjoy from now on.    Don't forget to post a picture of your organizer in the Shop Hacks Facebook Group when you finish!  We would love to see how you are Building YOUR Space!
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Shop Hacks Innovators Program
Make $$$ with your innovative Shop Hacks
Zig Zigler once said, "You will get all you want in life if you  help  enough  other  people get what they want".  That saying resonated with my core being and it is the basis of the Shop Hacks Innovators Program.    My goal is to help as many of you build your dreams as I can while I'm building my dream.   

What is this program?

In a Nutshell...
  1. I show you how to evaluate your product ideas to see which ones might be viable as products or plans.
  2. After going through the evaluation process on your own, you submit your product to the Innovators Program for evaluation.
  3. We negotiate a royalty % based on how complete your product is.  This will range from 5% to 50%  of the profits from your product.
  4. Shop Hacks will send you quarterly payments for your % of the profits along with screenshots showing your product sales revenues as well as    any associated marketing costs.
  5. No contracts or non-disclosure agreements.    This program is not for products that you might want to patent at anytime in the future.
  6. You retain the rights to sell your product/plans elsewhere at any price.  I retain the right to sell your product/plans  indefinitely or to stop selling it at any time.
  7. Simple products that can be made via plans or that will cost less than $10 to manufacture or that can sell as plans for less than $15 are the best candidates but others will be considered. 

My hope is that this program  allows motivated and  innovative people like you to make money selling your product plans without the hassle and expense of the sales and marketing side.   If you want to make $$ from your innovative and proven shop hacks then you will want to check this out.  The draft details of the program are outlined HERE.

I could have easily put plans together for my own version of Tim's drill organizer  design  and not split any of the profits.  However, the thought occurred to me, "there is 1000x more collective talent in the Shop Hacks community than I have.  They have talent and I have a marketing platform so why don't  I  work with these people in a way that can benefit all of us as a team".  Let's partner to create something better than any of us could create on our own.

Tim was using Sketchup (a low cost, entry level CAD software) when he first designed his drill organizer but was willing to  jump in to learn Fusion360 (a more powerful and free CAD/CAM software).  Having his design in Fusion made it easy for me to make the drawing views I wanted to use for the plans.  He picked Fusion up very quickly and developed the CAD model and plans in just a couple weeks in his spare time.       He put together the plans that are offered here and passed all of the information on to me to add the Shop Hacks branding.    He's finished and is already working on plans for two more products.    Without lifting a finger, Tim will accumulate residual income every quarter for as long as these plans continue to sell.

I'm open to receiving ideas via just napkin sketches but the more work I have to do the less the royalty will be.  However, all product ideas will be required to have the program steps completed prior to submission.  Right now, for plans, I'm offering 50% of the profits for anyone who goes through all of the steps outlined in the program and summits  a set of plans ready for release.   We will start there but  I will likely accept  products that have fully functional prototypes without a CAD model or plans and offer a much lower royalty % .

If this sounds like something you might be  ready to invest in then  go to the link above and read through the program outline.  If you are still interested after reading through the program requirements, you will be directed to a link where you can join the innovators group to ask more questions, interact with other Shop Hacks innovators and brainstorm how we can make this program the most beneficial for everyone involved.

I'm excited to help as many of you as possible to build your dreams, as I'm building mine!

​Shop Hacks Innovators Program


Check out  popular Shop Hacks Newsletters...
  • How to build your own    air filtration system that beats  TWO Powermatic PM1200 systems
  • How to  NEVER have to clean or change your shop vac filter again
  • DIY Mobile Tool Base with Simple DIY Hydraulic Lifts
  • How to organize your tools without feeling overwhelmed
  • How to organize your materials and hardware without feeling overwhelmed


Promotion....
Build YOUR Space with  these Shop Hacks  products...
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The Ultimate Air Filtration System - Build one in less than a day and get better performance than TWO Powermatic PM1200 units costing $500 each!  (Tested using a laser particle counter)
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The Ultimate Air Filtration System  Hardware Kit  -  Build your air filtration system faster and cheaper and make it look professional with this hardware kit.
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The Ultimate Flip Top Workbench (Mobile) -  Make the most of a small work area with this mobile flip top workbench.  It includes 8 integrated power outlets, integrated dust collection for each side of the table, a built-in downdraft table, folding wings, a large storage drawer and an optional mobile base.  It truly is the Ultimate in Flip Top Workbenches!
Mobile DIY Tool/Cabinet Base with  DIY Lifting Cylinders -  This is truly an out-of-the-box concept you can build yourself in one day using standard tools and cheap home center materials (plywood and PVC pipe).  Check out the page link for details and some demo videos .  This is something you've never seen anywhere else.
3 Comments

DIY Mobile Tool Base with DIY Hydraulic Lifts

9/7/2019

2 Comments

 
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When I designed the Shop Hacks Ultimate Flip Top Workbench I wanted a way to make it mobile that didn't require any hardware to protrude  beyond the base of the cabinet.  I couldn't find any mobile tool bases that were concealed so I designed my own using common tools and materials and the DIY Mobile Tool Base that I'll show you how to build today was born.
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You may have noticed that I didn't include the adjective "ultimate" in the name of this product.  While it works wonderfully and I couldn't be more pleased with it, I see this as more as a idea generator for applications for the cylinder concept used here.    There probably won't be that many people who want to build this exact mobile base.  However, this cylinder design can be  adapted to have anywhere up to 15 feet of stroke if you like.  I have made versions of this to lift  close to 200 lbs over 3 feet with a residential water supply and a hose. 

​Think outside of the box and consider what you might be able to do with such a low cost DIY hydraulic cylinder design.  If you come up with some ideas then post them in the Shop Hacks Facebook group with the rest of us.  I can't wait to see what might come out of this.
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The concept and implementation are fairly simple.  I  built 6 hydraulic cylinders out of PVC pipe, filled them with water and used a simple 12VDC air pump to pressurize the cylinders that lift the cabinet off the floor.  When the cabinet lifts the casters are pushed against the floor  which makes it mobile.  When the pressure is released the cylinders retract and the cabinet rests firmly on the floor like it would if it didn't have a mobile base.    You can see how it works in the short videos HERE.

You can see more details about how the system works in the following  photos and illustrations...
With a little trial and error you will be able to build this system from the information in this article.  If you are interested in saving some time by having detailed instructions, more illustrations and detailed drawings for each component you can purchase the plans HERE  for the discounted price of $5.95 published only to Shop Hacks Newsletter subscribers until 9/10/19.  The plans include 27 pages of photos and dimensioned drawings as well as a complete hyperlinked parts list to you don't have to search for parts.    Shop Hacks is solely supported through the sales of plans and affiliate links so thank you for considering  a purchase to support more free content like this to help Build YOUR Space!     

Affiliate links take you to the sales pages for products mentioned in this article.  They are listed at the exact same price as you would see if you search on your own but Shop Hacks receives a small commission from anything you purchase within 24 hours of clicking on an affiliate link.  Its a  free and easy way to support more content.

If you are interested in plans for the Ultimate Flip Top Workbench  (pictured below) that inspired this build, just click on the link to find out more.
Tools required:

You won't need any special tools or materials to build the   DIY Mobile Tool Base with DIY Hydraulic Lifts.    Here's a list of tools that you will need...
  • Calipers to accurately measure groove depths.  Cheap calipers will be accurate enough for this project.
  • Table saw with a flat ground tooth profile to cut flat bottom grooves, or you can use a router in a router table.
  • Router
  • Jig saw
  • Hack saw
  • Drill, bits.
  • Pencil
  • Straight edge
  • 1/4” NPT tap and tap handle (I used a wrench instead of a tap handle)
  • Ratchet set
The illustration below shows you an overview of the top assembly at a glance.  All of the numbered parts have associated drawings or purchase links in the plans.
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The illustration below shows you the detailed components of the Hydraulic cylinders.  Again, the detailed dimensioned drawings and part links are included in the plans.
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The hydraulic cylinder is made from Schedule 40 PVC pipe, a wooden or plastic plug epoxied into the bottom of  part number 2, a plastic retaining ring, an O-ring, a steel retainer rod and a couple barbed fittings.

The grooves can be cut using a table saw or router table setup.  I outline a method to safely and accurately cut the grooves in the plans.  You need to drill and tap the NPT holes for the barbed fittings.  I made the mistake of just drilling them and trying to tap them with the fittings themselves and it cost me a lot of wasted time trying to fix leaks.

WARNING:   Do NOT pressurize PVC pipe with air only.  Even though this assembly can probably handle much more pressure than the pump can deliver, there is a chance in just the right set of circumstances that it could crack and shatter causing it to send sharp pieces of plastic flying.    So, this system is meant to be an "air over liquid" system.    All of the  cylinders are filled with oil or water and the air pump  pressurizes a relatively small volume of air.  I used water in mine because my shop never goes below freezing.  If your shop goes below freezing then you should add antifreeze or use oil instead of water.

The following illustrations show how the system works overall.
When you press the momentary switch it turns on a 12VDC air pump that pressurizes the  cylinders and they extend.  When  the cylinders extend they press against the bottom of the cabinet, or against the frame supporting your tool,  which forces the casters down and lifts the tool.  You can move the tool on the casters.  When you want it to be planted firmly you just pull the pressure relief valve which releases the air  and forces the cylinders to retract under the weight of the tool.  I'll show the cylinders extended and retracted to make it clearer.
So, there you have it... a DIY mobile tool base with DIY hydraulic lifts that you can make in your own workshop.  Like I mentioned earlier, the plans include 27 pages of detailed instructions, photos and illustrations if you want to save some time.

I may consider selling hardware kits that include  the items  you might  not have readily available.  If you are interested in seeing a hardware kit made available for this system just let me know in the  comments or in the Shop Hacks Facebook Group.

I"ll include a few links to some of the parts I recommend for this build to get you started...
Set of 4 @ 3" Casters with a 300 lb each load rating.
Sealed lead acid 12V battery
12VDC Air Pump
5A  Momentary Switch

Don't forget that you can modify this design to have as much stroke as you want and use it for other purposes.  I'm looking forward to seeing what some of you will come up with!
2 Comments

Workbench Tops - Build and Restoration Options with Cost Breakdowns

8/29/2019

1 Comment

 
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The workbench may be the most used piece of equipment in most shops.  Workbenches range from a pair of sawhorses with an old door or piece of plywood laid across them to a work of art like the one below that Richard Csepregi‎  posted in the Shop Hacks Facebook group.    (Click on the photo to see more details in his post)
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We all have a workbench of some sort.  I think it is a fair bet that 99.999% of our workbenches don't look nearly as nice as Richard's ;-)  Chances are that your workbench looks more like the one below.  In this article I'll discuss the various materials that you can use to build or restore the most common types of workbenches and how much each option costs for a 2' x 8' version... a common size for a countertop type workbench.  You may be surprised to find that you can restore your workbench to for   a little over $1 per square foot.
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Shop   Hacks   exists to help you   Build   YOUR   Space!     Let's get started...
Based on the results of this   Shop Hacks Facebook group poll, it looks like Plywood and MDF make up the bulk of your workbench tops but pine and hardwood   round out the top  choices.   It's not difficult to imagine why.  Plywood and MDF are readily available, cheap and durable and make great general use work surfaces.  Pine and Hardwood can be made into thick,  flat tops with plenty of mass to absorb energy, which is essential for hand work such as chiseling.  We also have mechanics and metalworkers in the Shop Hacks tribe and they often use metal workbenches to handle heavy metal parts and fabrication as well as  oils and greases.  There's no perfect workbench for everyone but this article will help you determine what fits your needs the best.
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I've used many types of workbench surfaces over the years.  Plywood, laminate,  MDF, melamine, flooring products and epoxy coatings.  They all have their own unique advantages.

Let's talk about "shop feel" for a minute...
Many of you are aware of the transformation my workshop has been undergoing over the last few years.  I've been focusing a lot of energy on two goals for any shop improvement I make...

  1. Improve the organization and work flow efficiency
  2. Transform my shop into a destination that I enjoy for the way it "feels" as much as for the way it "works". 
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This second point is something  that never crossed my mind for over 30 years.  I was very happy with  organized tools and materials, a few florescent lights, dingy gray floors,  block walls, ineffective dust collection and a very basic workbench made of dark stained plywood.    I don't have pictures of the very start of my journey to create a workshop destination but these photos will give you a feel for the transformation that has occurred over the past couple of years.  For me, the transformation involved the following areas...
  • Effective dust collection (this opens the opportunity for open tool storage which is  much more efficient than drawers and cabinets)
  • Organized tools 
  • Organized materials
  • Quality lighting
  • A nice floor coating
  • Workbench restoration
This photo shows before and after epoxy coating my floor.  This was lower on my priority list but it sure made a huge difference in how the shop feels.
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These pictures show before and after organizing my tools and materials
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This photo shows the difference a simple workbench restoration made.  

Have you ever been so happy with a finished project that you just stood there for an hour looking at it.  This workbench restoration made me feel that way.  It looks great, is super durable but can take a beating.  I love it.
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My workbench may not be what you are looking for but I would venture to say that the way it makes me feel is something that you are looking for.  The original workbench top was a dark stained plywood.  I later covered in floor tiles (see picture inset above).  The floor tiles looked good for a while but quickly started looking terrible... bad choice.  I saw a few videos from Mike Quist at   Stonecoatcountertops YouTube channel  where they have hundreds of videos showing step by step instructions showing how to perform epoxy countertop restorations.  I decided to see if I could make something of my mess.     The photo below shows the before and after results.    

Full disclosure... Stonecoatcountertops.com provided the materials for the epoxy countertop restoration in exchange for a "how-to" video.   I'll post a link to that video in a future article.  There are other epoxy companies but I will say that SCC products were super easy to use and  I chose them because they have more video resources and tech support than any other company I could find.  For these reasons, I didn't approach any other companies.
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Below are close up pictures to give you a better feel for what you can do with less than $5 per square foot and one day (or less) of labor...
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I  have been using this workbench for almost a year now and it still looks great.  I have melamine top workbench that I use for any heavy duty pounding and sawing but I use this bench and the Shop Hacks Ultimate Flip Top Workbench  the most.  Other than scratches my epoxy coated benches still look like new.   You can hit them  with a hammer without damage.    If they ever start to look bad I'll just sand the tops and pour another skim coat of epoxy and it will look brand new again with just an hour of work and less than $20 of epoxy.

If you've never given much thought to improving the "feel" of your shop,  it may be worth a little effort.    Creating a destination has many rewards.  After coating my floors, installing a LOT of LED lighting, getting dust collection and air filtration completely under control and updating the look  of  my workbench, my shop feels like a completely different place.  It really is a destination... a place to crank out new products or just to hang out and soak in the  feel of a great looking space where there are not expectations other than my own.  This is what the Shop Hacks motto, "Build YOUR Space"   is all about.     

​Side note... I cut all of the vinyl graphics you see in these photos.  If you are interested in learning more about vinyl cutters you can find more information on the website HERE.
Common build/restoration options and costs

Without going into too many details let's just look at what some of the most common options and how much they cost.  
Price often dictates the materials used for a project.  To help you quickly determine which options are feasible for your workbench just multiply the length x width to determine the number of square feet then multiply that number by the cost per square foot for the materials that are listed below.  I’ve also included the cost to make a typical 2’x8’ bench top using each option.  The table below lists options from least expensive to most expensive.  Links to materials are provided for reference.    Use this as a reference to decide what materials and  coatings are right for you.
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Links to sites where prices were derived are provided below...
Workbench Top Material options...
$19.54          2 Layers of 3/4" Particle board
$25.67         2 Layers of 3/4" MDF

$27.00         2 Layers of 3/4" melamine
$36.48         2 Layers of sanded 3/4" sanded plywood
$53.00         2 Layers of 3/4" birch plywood

Workbench Top Finishing/Coating options...
$1.06             1 coat of Polyurethane (covers 500 ft2)
$2.22             Bonding primer
$2.30             ​1 coat of stain (covers 250 ft2)
$6.37             3/16" hardboard
$11.88         1 restoration coat of clear epoxy  (1 oz/ft2)
$26.00         Cheap Formica   (This is likely available much cheaper at specialty stores)
$35.68         1 coat of clear epoxy  (3 oz/ft2)
$43.04         1 coat of epoxy with color tint (3 oz/ft2)
$96.00         High price Hardwood flooring
...More details about each of the options...
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Plywood, Melamine, MDF and Particle Board Base Materials
Two sheets of ¾” melamine, MDF or particle board will provide a very functional surface that can last a long time.  They are certainly one of the cheapest options available.  Add a coat of paint and/or polyurethane and you have a functional, durable work surface that is inexpensive and that will last a long time for under $2 per square foot.  Because it is very smooth, flat and easy to work with, MDF is an ideal base for an epoxy countertop finish.  You can choose to use melamine with no extra finish.  Melamine provides a fairly durable surface that is easy to clean.  If you wax the melamine then glue will not stick to it.  Plywood is also a good base material that comes in at $2.28 to $3.31 per square foot for a 1.5” thick bench top.

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Paint and/or Polyurethane
If you already have a workbench or countertop then you can sand it down, add a coat of bonding primer, some paint and a coat of polyurethane and you will have a nice looking surface for under $0.25 per square foot.  Throw in some low cost vinyl graphics under the polyurethane and you will have a unique custom work surface for just a few dollars. 

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Tempered Hardboard
Tempered hardboard on top of workbenches and counters is a great option for a very durable surface that is easily restored if you use it often for gluing, fastening, cutting, drilling and painting on the surface.  A coat of paste wax to seal the hardboard and make glue less likely to stick to it.  If you don’t like the dark color of hardboard you can paint it and put a coat of polyurethane over the paint to seal it up then some paste wax to keep glue from sticking.  3/16” hardboard comes in at a low 40 cents per square foot which makes it a very popular option.

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Tile and Hardwood Flooring
Depending on how you use your workbench or countertop, you might also consider covering it in tile or hardwood flooring.  Ceramic and composite tiles can be a durable option that provide latitude in terms of patterns and colors.  Ceramic tiles certainly are not good for operations that involve a lot of impact or cutting but are very suitable for things such as potting or food service.  They are also offered in woodgrain patterns that look very realistic yet offer very high durability.  Tile costs range from about $1 per square foot to over $5.
Hardwood flooring is another option that offers a very durable and unique looking surface for just about any operations.  It is very quick and easy to install.  Hardwood flooring ranges from $1 per square foot to over $6.  If you search around you may even be able to get enough offcuts to cover your workbench for almost no cost.  Check with your local flooring distributors to see what they have available. ​

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Epoxy Coating
As you can see, epoxy coating your countertop or work surface can yield amazing results. I chose to use epoxy because of the high end look it provides for a relatively low $5 per square foot price tag.  It also doesn’t require any special skills or artistic talent to obtain an amazing look.  I also wanted to embed my company graphics into the workbench and epoxy coatings make this very easy to do with a very professional looking final result.  While epoxy coating is on the higher end of your options in terms of cost, it is also without a doubt yields some of the most spectacular results.

As mentioned earlier, epoxy resin is great for many applications but it is not ideal for every application.  Below is a list of strengths and weaknesses of epoxy coatings:

​Why I used epoxy resin for 2 of my workbenches:
• I do a lot of assembly and electrical work on this bench.  I have 3 other benches that get most of the cutting, sawing, pounding and gluing so I’m not worried about destroying this one.
• It looks amazing.  You can obtain a gloss or matte finish that looks stunning.  It also allows me to add branding graphics under the final flood clear coat which look very professional.
• Versatile.  You can create many different looks.  Your imagination is the limit.  You can coat just about any surface with epoxy. A wide range of colors, tints and metallic additives are available.
• Self-leveling. It will create a very smooth and flat surface on any level surface even if the surface contains cracks or imperfections.
• Easy to use.  Anyone can use it to get amazing results.
• SCC’s epoxy resins have no VOC’s so you don’t have a strong smell while applying it.
• SCC’s epoxy resins have UV inhibitors included to make them suitable for use outside in indirect sunlight.
• Epoxy resins are very resistant to chemicals and solvents
• Heat resistant.  SCC’s countertop resins are heat resistant up to several hundred degrees.  They will soften with extended exposure to high temperatures but they will not scorch easily.
• Epoxy resins are easily repaired.  Just sand and polish scratches out or lightly sand and apply another flood coat to make the surface looks as good as new.

Situations where you might not want to use epoxy resins:
• Due to the cost and time required to rework an epoxy countertop it may not make sense to use epoxy in areas that see a high level of abuse such as drilling, cutting or very high temperatures such as grinding, milling or welding areas.  In those areas a cheaper material like tempered hardboard that is easily replaced or a very durable material like steel may be more appropriate.
Workbench Ideas

Flip Top Workbenches
Flip top workbenches  allow you to  pack more tools in less space.  Mobile flip top workbenches are the ultimate in space and workflow efficiency.

I frequently use two other workbenches besides the one I showed you earlier.  I got very tired of dragging my mitersaw out of storage every time I needed to make a  simple miter cut or two.  So, I designed the   Shop Hacks Ultimate Flip Top Workbench.   
This is a mobile flip top workbench which allows 3-second access to my mitersaw when I need it but allows me to use it as a workbench the other 99% of the time.  It   includes a concealed    electro-hydraulic lifting mobile base.  I use it as an assembly and sanding table 99% of the time.  It has 8 built-in power outlets powered by a single cord so I always have a power outlet close at hand.  It also has a very innovative integrated dust collection which powers a blast gated port on one side for a tool such as a miter saw, planer or a sander. 

The other side has an integrated 5" x 24"  high air velocity downdraft table that is very effective at capturing sanding dust.  It also makes clean-up a breeze.  Just one swipe of your hand and  all of the dust on the table is sucked into the downdraft port.   ​  A single vacuum connection on the side of the cabinet supplies both sides of the flip table.  I.E. the tool on one side and the downdraft table on the other.
​I installed the   Chop Stop (coming soon)  miter-stop fenceless  system.  With the Chop Stop I never have to measure or mark my stock.  Just set it and forget it.  The T-track for this system can also be used to clamp stock in place while using the workbench side of the table.
Multi-function   Workbenches
For heavy duty pounding and work holding I use this melamine top workbench attached to my cabinet saw shown in the photos below.  Please excuse the obscene use of color on this system.  It  not the looks that count... it's what's on the inside, right?  :-)    This workbench has the following features...​
  • A built in 900 CFM downdraft table with 4-stage air filtration which also serves as a multi-function table  for 3/4" dogs and clamping fixtures and dust collection for the table saw.  The melamine is a great surface to pound, drill and saw on because it is durable, cheap, and easily replaceable. 
  • A craft paper roll on one end to  keep   the top clean when I'm painting or gluing. 
  • The 4-stage filtered downdraft table also serves as a very effective workshop air cleaner.                         I recently  designed the 2,000 CFM Shop Hacks Ultimate DIY Air Filtration System which is more effective than two Powermatic PM1200 air filtration systems (that cost $1,000) and it can be built in less than a day with a jigsaw, a drill and a router, table saw or circular saw for around $200 total cost.
  • 3 hinged dust containment panels fold up to enclose the downdraft table making it much more effective at capturing dust.  They fold down behind the table when not in use. 
  • A built in vacuum system  made from a $20 yard sale Dyson vacuum cleaner.  It is used for the over blade dust collection and general cleanup around the saw.
I hope this article gave you some ideas to   Build   YOUR   Space.    If you have some ideas to share feel free to post them in the comments below.    You can also reach me at tony@shophacks.com if you have any questions or if you just want to suggest topics for future articles.

Be sure to join us at the Shop Hacks Facebook group where  you will find great workshop improvement ideas posted every day.
Check out  popular Shop Hacks Newsletters...
  • The Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System build article
  • How to  NEVER have to clean or change your shop vac filter again
  • Workshop Air Filtration System Shootout
  • How to organize your tools without feeling overwhelmed
  • How to organize your materials and hardware without feeling overwhelmed

Promotional...
Build YOUR Space... and begin transforming your workshop into a destination starting with one of these Shop Hacks products...
The Ultimate  Flip Top Workbench
  • A mobile workbench and precision miter  station that folds to c compact 36" x  38"  footprint.
  • 8 built-in power outlets
  • Built-in dust collection ports
  • Built-in high air velocity downdraft table
  • Electric DIY mobile lifting base (affordable)
The Ultimate   DIY Air Filtration  System
  • Filter out that fine layer of dust before it covers everything in your shop - including your lungs.
  • 2x the Air Cleaning Power of a $500 Powermatic PM1200 for 40%  of the cost. (see test results below)
  • A 4-hour build with the plans, a drill, jigsaw and either a circular saw or a router.
  • A 2-hour build with the optional    hardware kit
  • ​Click   HERE   for the build article
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1 Comment

Build Article -                                                                      The Shop Hacks Ultimate DIY Air Filtration System

8/23/2019

10 Comments

 
It has finally arrived...   the Shop Hacks Ultimate DIY Air Filtration System build article.   You can design your system with the information in this article or buy the plans to get all the exact dimensions to speed up the process.
I've spent many weeks building and testing many systems and this air filtration system  blows them all away.  If you are interested in a deep dive into previous articles that cover all of the testing and findings you can find them here...   Air Filtration System Shootout Article - Deep Dive 
 Please consider supporting more  Shop Hacks content by purchasing the  Plans   and/or   Hardware.   They  are both discounted 10% for Newsletter subscribers until 8/25/19 .
​

Plans Include
  • Hyperlinked Parts List to save time... no searching required. Just click for parts.
  • Detailed dimensioned drawings and instructions for fabrication and assembly (27 pages with LOTS of extra pictures)
  • Photos of every step of the process
  • Instructions for use and maintenance
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Hardware Includes

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The following summarizes why this system is worth building.    You can build it for under $100 if you only use one filter now and for under $200 if you use all five filters to get the max performance and a virtually maintenance free system.  Even using only one filter it will still outperform the Powermatic PM1200 but flow will drop off sharply as the filter gets dirty.  The more filters you use the less the flow will drop over time.  With 5 filters you may  be able to run the system for many years without any filter maintenance.
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Let's jump straight into the build...
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Overview and Supporting Notes
Depending on your level of experience, this build should take between 3 and 6 hours to complete for a first-time build.  Every part is detailed in the drawings throughout these plans.  Don’t forget to purchase the remote control timer that allows you to keep the system running for 30 minutes, 1,2 or 4 hours after you leave your shop.  You can find it at this affiliate link… https://amzn.to/2ZsvcyA
 
A note about affiliate links… Affiliate links help Shop Hacks offer quality content to you for free via the Shop Hacks Newsletter and Shop Hacks Facebook group.  When you purchase anything from Amazon within 24 hours of clicking on an affiliate link Amazon gives Shop Hacks a small commission.  Using the link doesn’t affect the price you pay at all but it does help Shop Hacks help you Build Your Space.  Thank you for using affiliate links!
 
Required tools:
Circular saw or table saw
Router
Jig saw
Drill, bits and a 1.25” spade bit, Forstner bit or hole saw.
Pencil
Straight edge

Optional tools:
Pin nailer
Caulking gun
Here's a copy of the parts list with the part number followed by the part name... 
1  20" 2264QM High Velocity Fan      (affiliate link)
2   Filter    (affiliate link)
3   Front Panel    
4   Horizontal Panel
5   Vertical Panel
6   Rear Panel
7   Cord Cover
8   Speed Control Cover
9   Filter Clip
10   Filter Clip2
11   Hanger Block
12   Hook
13   Fan Clip
14   Chain
15  #6 x 5/8" long flat head wood screw
16   #6 x 3/8" long flat head wood screw
17   Caulk
18   Wood glue
19  Construction adhesive
​A detailed parts list with hyperlinks to all of the hardware used in this build is included in the plans.  You can also see the hardware used in the photo earlier in the article.

  1. Remove the base from the fan.  Keep the screw that is used to hold the speed control to the post.  It will be used later to hold the speed control to the Front Panel (PN #3).
  2. Cut PN’s 3 through 6 out to their outer dimensions in the drawings provided using a circular saw or table saw.  Note the quantities required in the Parts List.  The cutout for the fan speed control is oversize to allow the speed control to slip through the hole back to front to mount it from the front.
  3. After cutting the outer dimensions mark all of the features on the parts per the drawings provided with these plans. 
  4. Use a router and or a jigsaw to cut the holes, tabs and slot profiles as shown in the drawings.
When you are finished your parts should look something like this…
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5.  Next, dry fit all of the parts to ensure they fit together as required.  Don’t worry about gaps here or there. 

Note:  Be careful to place the Rear Panel in the orientation shown relative to the speed control cutout on the Front Panel.  This will allow proper placement of the power cord through the Rear Panel. Gaps will be filled with caulk from the inside in a later step.  The assembly should look something like ,the following photo…
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 Once you are happy with the dry fit it is helpful but not necessary to pin nail panels in place after you glue and reassemble them.  I just pin nailed everything together dry then added glue along the inside joints after it was assembled.  This provides more than enough strength to hold the assembly together.
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I bought a Metabo (formerly Hitachi) pin nailer for this project.  It came highly recommended on by a lot of people in the Shop Hacks Facebook Group and I’m super pleased with how it performs.  It sets the pins at the right depth regardless of the material type that I’ve used it on.  Here’s an affiliate link to the pin nailer the group recommended and that I used… https://amzn.to/31X1qzD 

Apply construction adhesive along the slots on the back side of the Front Panel (PN3) then clamp it to the frame.  

Next, insert the fan through the hole in the Front Plate from the back side and install the 4 Fan Clips (PN13) using 4 #6x5/8” flat head wood screws (PN15).  It helps to predrill the holes for the clips before installing the screws.  
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If you used melamine, sand or chip off the area that will be under the Speed Control Cover (PN8).  This will give something for the glue to adhere to when you attach it.  

Slip the fan speed controller through the hole in the Front Panel and install the bolt that came with it to secure it to the Front Panel.  

Use glue or construction adhesive to attach the Speed Control Cover to the Front Panel over the fan speed control assembly.  

​Place the plug through the hole drilled in the Rear Panel (PN6) then attach the Cord Cover (PN7) with glue or construction adhesive to seal up the hole.  I cut the Cord Cover into two pieces to attach it.  If you use thin plastic or a flexible material you can just cut a single slit from the hole to the outside.  I added a zip tie to the cord to act as a strain relief.  Sand down any sharp edges that could damage the cord.  

​Apply caulk over all of the seams and any areas where unfiltered air might enter the housing.  You want all of the air to be forced through the filters to get the maximum filtration efficiency. 
          
Now you can install the Filters (PN2).  They should be a snug fit if your dimensions are just right but you can add small blocks or press in small wedges to hold them in place if they are loose.  You should be able to use these filters for years before they need to be replaced so you don’t need install a quick release mechanism unless you just prefer to do so.

If you purchased the Shop Hacks hardware kit for this build you can install the optional Filter Clips (PN9 5ea and PN10 1 ea), Hanger Block (PN11) and Hooks (PN12).  PN10 attaches to the rear panel only.
 
Iron-on edge banding adds a finishing touch but is certainly optional.
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Don’t forget to add the remote-control power switch with timer functions https://amzn.to/2ZsvcyA .  This will allow you to turn the system on when you need it and leave it running for 30 minutes to 4 hours after you leave your shop to make sure the fine dust is removed before it settles all over your tools and projects.

Does positioning or orientation matter?
 I ran a test with a smaller air filtration system to see if adding an extra fan in the shop to circulate more air would make any difference in terms of the effectiveness of the air filtration system.  As you can see from the figure below, adding a recirculation fan in the shop made no measurable difference.  The finest and most dangerous particles act more like gasses and disperse evenly throughout the entire space.  This means that as long as your system is placed in the same room as where you are creating the dust the placement and orientation won’t matter.  You can place it under a bench or in a loft or wherever you want.
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However, temperature differences between the floor and 8’ up can vary as much as 20F so the placement of your system may matter in terms of how hot your shop feels.  If you are in a very hot climate then it would be best to draw the air into the system as low as practical.  If you live in a very cold climate then try to draw air from up high but try to not allow the air cause much circulation where you work or it will feel like a constant cold breeze.

I don’t have any long term tests on the filters that I recommend for this system, however, I do have a similar system with similar filters that has been running for 3 years now 24/7.  I’ve swept the filters a few times but they are caked with dust and still perform very well.  They are still 80% efficient at removing particles 0.5 microns and larger and the flow rate hasn’t dropped noticeably.
 
How many filters do you need to use?

This system will perform better than the Powermatic PM1200 even if you only install one filter.  However, over time the flow rate will drop faster than the PM1200 because the filter area is lower.  With two filters you can go longer between cleaning the filters.  With five filters you should be able to use it indefinitely without having to clean the filters.  I don’t have any tests to see how it performs under heavy dust conditions over long periods so I can’t make any promises but I am confident that it will always outperform the PM1200 system when used under the same conditions.
 
I hope you enjoy your Shop Hacks Ultimate DIY Air Filtration System!  It will be a great add to your shop and your lungs and heart will thank you for many years to come.
10 Comments

Preview - The Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System

8/9/2019

9 Comments

 
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Several weeks ago I presented the test results from tests of 10 different air filtration systems.  The results were  amazing and a  $100 DIY system beat the $500 Powermatic PM1200 air filtration system by a pretty wide margin.  You can read that article HERE.  Below is a summary of some of the performance results from that article.  Particle counts were logged using a laser particle counter.  All tests were performed by cutting   about 12 ft of ½” MDF and 12 ft of ¾” melamine on a table saw with the blade elevated 2” above the stock (to create more dust).  For reference, the green band at the bottom of the graph is where you want your shop air to be for a healthy environment.  Anything above that band is unhealthy.
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I learned a great deal during the air filtration system testing and  I'll distill the most important findings in this article.  I learned enough to design a system that you can build yourself that will outperform the equivalent of two $500 Powermatic systems!  Next week I'll present  the Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System   in a "How-To" article.

This article is laid out as follows:
  1. How many filters are ideal and why?
  2. Which filters and fan to buy?  You can have them ready to build this system as soon as the plans are released next Friday!
  3. Cost and performance compared with the $500 Powermatic PM1200.  (Spoiler alert... this system is going to blow the PM1200 away in cost, features, and performance!)
How many filters are ideal and why?
The surface area of your filtration material matters.  It matters a lot.  Each time you double the  filter material area you cut the  flow resistance at any given flow rate down by 4x.  If you increase the filter area  by 4x you decrease the resistance 16x.    Increasing the filter area by 10x decreases the resistance by 100x.  You get the point...  put mathematically, the flow resistance at any flow rate decreases as the square of the filter area. 

What does this mean in practical terms?
​For a 20" box fan the flow using 1, 2 and 4  @ 20"x20"x1" new (clean) filters is...
  • 1 set of 2 filters stacked (as tested) - 375 CFM
  • Using THIS filter...
  • 1 filter - 500 CFM
  • 2 filters in a V-configuration - 750 CFM
  • 4 filters in a box configuration -  900 CFM

For the Lasko High Velocity Fan
  • 2 sets of two @ 20"x20"x1" filters stacked (as tested) - 1300 CFM
  • 2  each of  THIS filter in a V-configuration - 1750 CFM
  • 4 each of THIS filter in a box configuration -   1850 CFM  (equivalent to 2 Powermatic PM1200 air filtration systems costing $1,000!


As you can see, the benefits of adding more filters drops off after two filters.  However, dirty filter will have about 2x the resistance of a clean filter.  This means 
  • A 4 dirty filter system will flow the same as 2 clean filters
  • A 2 dirty filter system will flow the same as 1 clean filter

So, a 4 filter system with dirty filters  will perform 35% better than a 2 filter system with dirty filters.  I have a 3 year old, 4 filter system in my shop and I've only swept the filters a few times and it still  performs very well.  It is nearly a no-maintenance system.

For this reason, the Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System will be modular.  You can use 2,3, 4 or 5 filters with it depending on  your  budget preferences.  That will allow those who want to save some $$ to use just two filters and those who want the least amount of maintenance and the highest performance to use 3, 4 or 5 filters.
What Fan and Filters Should You Buy?
After running the Air Filtration Shootout Tests I realized that lower MERV ratings do not mean that filters will have lower resistance to flow.  In fact, THIS filter, when clean, has a lower flow resistance than ANY filter I've tested, including cheap fiberglass filters.    I found this test data to back up this notion...

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So, the stacked MERV 8 and MERV 11 filter configuration that I used in the Air Filtration System Shootout was both more restrictive and filtered fewer particles than a system using THIS filter alone.  I'll link to the fan that I'll design the Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System around below also.

​If you want to have your materials ready to start building with the plans for the Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System comes out next week then  purchase the following:
2, 3, 4 or 5 of these   20"x25"x1" filters    (the link is for a 2-pack).  Higher or lower rated filters will NOT flow as well as this one.   You want this exact model.  If you want one for your furnace you can choose a different size but use this model.
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The Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System will be designed around THIS fan if you want to have it on hand to build the system when the plans come out next week.  With a 4 or 5 filter setup, this fan will flow around 1850 CFM and achieve over 85% filtration efficiency for particles 0.5 microns and larger.  This is the equivalent of two Powermatic PM1200 systems ($1,000) for under $200.
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I look forward to presenting the Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System design and a link to the plans to you in next week's article.  If you have any questions in the meantime, please leave them in the comments section below this article!  I'll be happy to help you out.

If you haven't subscribed to the Shop Hacks Newsletter then just click the link below to opt-in.  This Newsletter comes out each Friday afternoon and contains tips that will help you Build Your Space!
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9 Comments

Workshop Organization - How to Organize Your Materials and Hardware Without Feeling Overwhelmed

8/2/2019

10 Comments

 
If you aren't already subscribed and  enjoy this type of content, you can subscribe to the weekly Shop Hacks Newsletter  below.
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A sad but far too common shop related quote ... "I refuse to throw anything away, and never put anything back away.  Eventually it gets so bad I don't even want to go in my shop."

Does that sound familiar to you?  We can all use some help organizing our workshop materials and hardware.    Do you have a jar of screws that you just keep adding to thinking that one day you it will save your life?  How about a scrap bin full of 20 years worth of off cuts that you are sure you will need one day?​  Have you ever started to organize that jar of screws or your many bins full of various hardware only to give up because there were just too many ways to sort them and it wasn't obvious at all which way you should choose?

In today's article I'll show you how to organize common workshop materials and  hardware.  This  article can help you get over the hump.    I'll show you how I organized my hardware including pictures of several ways to store hardware and materials.  Your workflow will likely dictate very different solutions than mine, but these ideas can be a starting point.  Hopefully they will offer some extra encouragement to help you Build Your Space!
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The idea of getting organized is very exciting.  The act of organizing is certainly not a fun task.  Why would anyone go through the work needed to organize materials and hardware?

​Three years ago my shop was a disaster area.   I reached a breaking point after  tripping over some sheet goods for the thousandth time.  They were stored in the path from the door to my main work area.   The frustration of not changing finally exceeded the  dread of making a commitment to change.  I had no idea at the time how these changes would totally transform  how much I enjoy my shop time.

​Check out the before and after pics below.  These pictures will give you a feel for the difference a concerted effort can make and I hope they encourage you to take those first steps forward.  You can do this too. 

I'll   show you where to start and how to go  about the decision making process   and   I'll share about the specific organizers that I use that transformed my shop.
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BEFORE:    Piles of Materials  EVERYWHERE
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BEFORE:  Every Horizontal Surface is Covered up
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BEFORE:  Paints, Solvents, Hardware in Disarray

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 AFTER:  Neatly Organized 
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AFTER:  FREEDOM!!  Workbenches Free and Clear and my most used tools and materials are within arms reach
​All Materials and Hardware are in Labeled Locations and my shop stays like this  all the time now that it's so easy to put everything away.
Why Get Organized??
When I look at these 3 year old pictures of my shop, I realize that I've already forgotten how I worked for almost 30 years.  I would NEVER consider working like that now that I've experienced a whole new level of workshop enjoyment.  In the past my shop would get very disorganized.   I would  cover every horizontal surface with tools and materials again.  Then, occasionally, I would spend a couple hours rearranging junk so it felt more organized   (but nothing like it is now).  I was always fighting for working space and wasting time.
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How much time does it cost to be disorganized?
One of the most common sayings I hear all the time is, "My shop is a mess but I  know where everything is.".  That may be true but you are still wasting a lot of time if you are keeping unused items in your active work areas and if the items you use 80% of the time are not within arms reach.

Think about how many times an hour you have to walk to get a tool or  a piece of hardware.    Let's just assume that you  walk 10 ft to get a tool or some  piece of hardware or material at least 15x per hour that you work in your shop.  That's probably a low estimate for most of us.  Assuming  it takes 20 seconds to get what you are looking for that's close to 5 minutes per hour wasted on motion and hunting for things.  Let's just say 10% for an even number.  If you look at the photo above you will see that I have pared my tools and materials down so that the items I use 80% of the time are within arms reach.     
Compared to my previous setup I now get to spend 10% more time making, building and fixing things vs. cleaning, sorting and hunting.    I spend around 2,000 hours a year in my workshop so that adds up to around 200 hours (5 full weeks) that I get to spend on projects vs wasting time hunting. 

Let's say you spend 10 hours a week in your shop.   Using the same numbers as above...


Organizing your tools and materials can allow you to spend over 50 more hours each year doing what you love vs. walking around, hunting and sorting!

What would you make in your shop if you had an extra 50 hours per year to spend without taking time away from anything else?
What Should You Do First?
As I mentioned earlier I had several false starts when I tried to organize my shop.  If you try to organize everything you will fail.     Work on one work area at a time.

The more organized I get the more I realize that less is best.    This is why it is imperative that you only try to organize what you physically touch over 10 sessions or so in any particular work area.  If you haven't touched tools, hardware or materials in that work area in the last 10 sessions in your shop then  trust me, it needs to go into a storage area or out of your shop.  Save room for the tools, materials and hardware that you use 80% of the time in each work area and mount them all within arms reach.

I previously wrote an article about    How to Organize Your Tools Without Feeling Overwhelmed.  In that article I show you  how to pare down the tools to increase your efficiency and buy back as much as a full  week per year of extra project time without taking that time from anything else.  Click on the link to get more details about how this principle makes everything about organizing your shop much easier and more efficient, including hardware and materials.

Organizing Your Hardware
The first organizing task that I completed was to organize my screws and other small hardware pieces.  If you want to succeed you will have to make some uncomfortable decisions to get everything you don't touch on a regular basis out of your work areas.  You got where you are with comfortable decisions.  If you want to spend more time doing what you love and less time  hunting and sorting then you will eventually have to do this anyway...   empty your junk drawers, jars, etc... into the garbage.  If you just can't bring yourself to do that then put them away in a storage area that doesn't use valuable space but get everything out of your work area to start with.  Unless you have expensive hardware that you  already have slated for a specific project you are better off starting with a clean slate.  You can buy hardware relatively cheaply at Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply so  don't hang on to your random assorted hardware.  

Put together hardware bins and organizers

It is easier to show you what I did than to try to explain it.  I'll show you what I ended up with for every organizer. 
  1. I dumped my misc screws and hardware bin into the garbage when I realized that I hadn't touched 99+% of those items in years and I didn't even remember most of them were there.
  2. I took all of the many hardware organizers I already had and grouped all the hardware into logical groups.  Everyone will have different groups depending on what you do and how you work.
  3. I bought 16 Harbor Freight organizers and built holders for them.    The holders mount to the wall using French Cleats.  I mounted them closest to the areas where I typically use them.  I 3D printed some extra smaller bins (the red ones) because I needed more than came with  the organizers.
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           4.    I labeled every bin and placed them with the ones I use the most frequently closest to me.
Below are 4 sets of 4 organizers that I felt were worth keeping in my active work area within arms reach.  I stored everything else away from my work area.
Organizer bin labels I created:
Bin #1
  1. Flat Head Wood Screws
  2. #6 thru 1/4" Machine thread Screw / Nut / washer
  3. 3mm to 8mm Machine Screw / Nut / Washer
  4. Pocket Hole Screws & Specialty Fasteners
Bin #2
  1. Electrical / Soldering Tools
  2. Electrical / Wiring Hardware
  3. Plumbing
  4. O-Ring / Grommet / Gasket
​Bin #3
  1. 1/4" & 5/16" T-rods / Knobs / Inserts
  2. Steel Dowels, Cotter Pins, Springs
  3. Wall Anchor Hardware
  4. Hooks / Hangers / Chains
Bin #4
  1. 5/16" & 3/8" Bolt / Nut / Washer
  2. 7/16" & 1/2" Bolt / Nut / Washer
  3. Nails
  4. Wood Dowels / Wood Biscuits / Metal Rivets
Pictures of the contents in each hardware organizer:
I should reiterate that your setup will most likely look totally different than mine.    I ended up using about half of these on a frequent basis so I could have saved some time and just put the rest in storage.  It doesn't hurt to have to walk to a storage area for something you only use occasionally.  However, it saves a lot of time to have everything you use frequently within arms reach.   Organize only the items that you actually touch and store or purge the rest.  I store refills for frequently used hardware in a storage area.
I used the Harbor Freight hardware organizers.  They have held up very well and I can recommend them for in shop use if you have a Harbor Freight store in your area.  If you don't have a Harbor Freight store near you or if you want something more durable for rough use then you might be interested in one of the higher end sets listed below.
Disclosure:  The products listed are affiliate links.  By using these links you won't pay any extra but Shop Hacks will receive a small commission on each purchase.  Thank you for your support that enables me to continue creating these articles to help you Build Your Space!
If money is no object then you might consider investing in the Festool Sortainer system
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Festool 200119 SYS 4 Sortainer
by Festool
4.4 out of 5 stars    29 customer reviews  
Price: $170.00  FREE One-Day & FREE Returns
Equipped with three large drawers , each with a capacity of 6.7 liters (Dividers are optional)
Lighter format than the traditional containers
With a new style of drawer latch
Compatible with T-LOC and Classic Systainers
If  you are content with a very good and durable system but don't want to spend 3x as much for it then  the   Sortimo T-BOXX G was highly recommended in the ​Shop Hacks Facebook group.
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Sortimo T-BOXX G incl. 16pc ibs
by Sortimo
Be the first to review this item  
Price: $63.65 + $13 shipping
Including 16 inset boxes set H63
Small components in view at all times
Comfortable to carry
Cost-savings due to long service life
Flexible by the removal of individual inset boxes
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​DeWalt DWST14825 10-Compartment Deep Pro Part/Tool Organizer with Metal Latch
by DEWALT
4.6 out of 5 stars    95 customer reviews 
Organizer with integrated carry handle for small part organization
Removable cups for inner customization of small tools and parts
Anti-rust metal latches for long life
Heavy duty clear and impact resistant lid
Units are stackable for storage and transport
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I used the  Harbor Freight Organizers because they are very inexpensive and I needed  16 of them. 

This is not an affiliate link but  I want to include it so that  all of you can Build Your Space without spending a fortune.


Spray Paint Can Storage...
I used to keep my spray cans in an old refrigerator but I found that I  didn't like having to bend over and move the cans in front to see what I had in stock behind them.  I designed the rack to pack the cans as closely together as I could.  It hangs on a French cleat which makes it easy to relocate.  I've relocated it a couple times already.  Some people would prefer to store volatile compounds in a flame rated cabinet and I can see their point, but I prefer this method.

Adhesives and Solvent Storage...
I  originally stored my paints, adhesives and solvents on shelves.    I had to walk half way across the shop just to use them.  I paid attention to which ones I used the most often and made simple routed pockets in melamine boards for them.  Every location is labeled so I know what is missing.  Without labels most of these organizing systems fall apart so don't skip this step.  This may seem like an inconsequential change but it has saved me many hours in just a couple of years now.  I haven't had to change any of  the boards to accommodate different shaped containers yet but, if I do, I can easily modify the CNC file and cut another one out in 10 minutes.

​Before and after pics below...

Sheet Goods Storage...
Unfortunately I don't have any pictures to show the "Before" chaos in my shop.    I tried three different methods to store my sheet goods.
  1. Stacked against the wall with the largest sheets in the rear and the smallest pieces in the front.  That allowed me to store full sheets in the shop.  I hated it though because it was a massive pain to retrieve the sheets in the rear.    I soon abandoned that method.
  2. I built a sheet good storage rack that used a  winch to lower the sheets down from the ceiling.  I stored my stick material in a rack on the back.  At first I thought I had really come up with a game changer but after using this for 6 months I realized that it suffered from the same issue as the first method... it was a pain to get to sheets in the rear.    It was also a challenge to get sheets out of it without moving things around in the shop.
  3. Finally, I  decided to not store full sheets and I placed all of my wood sheet goods perpendicular to the wall and  sorted them largest to smallest.  This works great because I rarely need full sheets and when I do I just store them under a carport until I'm ready to use them.  I store my plastic and cardboard sheets in the same area on the adjacent side.
Ceiling mounted sheet goods organizer...
I didn't like having to lower the rack and move things just to get to something in the rear.  I  found that I often would forget about stock that was stored here because it wasn't easy to see everything at a glance.  Cool innovation but unfortunately it wasn't very practical for my work flow.
The sheet goods storage method I like the best so far... 
​Sometimes the simplest way ends up being the best way.  I can easily pull out any sheet I want without moving or lifting around another sheet and I can easily see everything I have available to use with a single glance.

CNC Router Work Area...
I use my CNC router a lot so I didn't want to have to walk to another area to get anything that I used for CNC tasks.  Except for a drill and driver I have everything I need within arms reach of my CNC.    I almost always screw my stock to the waste board so I have various length screws mounted on magnets in the lid.  Various fixtures and hardware are stored in a drawer just below the CNC.

Bars,  Rods and Tubing Storage...
I don't use bars, rods and tubing very frequently but just frequently enough to justify storing them in my shop.    Below are some before and after pictures.  The organizer is on a lazy Susan bearing so I can rotate it to access any of the  stock I need without reaching around anything.
I have quite a few other organizing systems in place but this should get you started with plenty of ideas.  Start with one small set of hardware and work your way out.  I can guarantee you that you will enjoy working in your shop more than ever once you follow the simple methods that I've laid out in this article as well as in the   How to Organize Your Tools Without Feeling Overwhelmed  article.  

If you enjoyed this article and want to receive weekly tips like this via email, you can subscribe to the the Shop Hacks Newsletter .  If you want to see new shop hacks every day then join  the Shop Hacks Facebook group!
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10 Comments

Shop Vac Filters - NEVER have to clean your shop vac filter again with this DIY system!

7/15/2019

4 Comments

 
Please post comments and questions in the comments section at the bottom of this article.  I would love to help you out and to hear about what you care about the most.
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  • How to organize    your tools without feeling overwhelmed
  • The Ultimate DIY Air Filtration System - A step-by-step how to build your own system that outperforms a $500 Powermatic air cleaner.​
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​In this article, you will learn how to build a shop vac system that...
  • Never requires you to touch the filter again
  • Improves the   filtration efficiency of your vac system
  • Allows you to mount your vac out of the way to reduce noise
Plus...
  • How cyclone separators work
  • Why a cyclone separator is not enough to create a maintenance free system
  • The differences between shop vacs and dust extractors
Shop Hacks articles are designed to empower you to Build Your Space so they are longer than most but, if you prefer to skim...   Use this index  to  go straight to the parts you care about ...
  1. Cleaning a shop vac filter exposes you to the dust you want to avoid
  2. What if I told you that you never have to  clean  your shop vac filter again?
  3. How do I know this system is safe?
  4. Why don't manufacturers make all shop vacs this way?
  5. ​What's the secret to NEVER having to clean your shop vac filter?
  6. Benefits of never having to touch your shop vac
  7. How to build your own maintenance free shop vac system
  8. Shop Hacks maintenance-free shop vac   system   recommendations
  9. Deep Dive - More options and more insights for the curious...
  • How do cyclone separators   work?
  • Do you still need to use a filter with a cyclone separator?
  • Shop vac cyclone separators  options?
  • How to make your own cyclone separator.
  • Choosing a collection bin
  • Choosing a shop vac
  • Shop vacs vs. dust extractors - is there a difference?
1.  What if I told you that you never have to  clean  your shop vac filter again?
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​This is a picture of my 3-year-old shop vac filter that has never been cleaned.   It has over 700 hours of vacuuming CNC router (a tool that cuts wood all day long) dust from various types of woods and composites and it still works like new.  As you can see, the filter has very little dust in it.  Even after 700 hours of use  it still flows air like it did the first day.  
2.  Cleaning a shop vac filter exposes you to the dust you want to avoid.
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Who likes having to clean your dirty shop vac filter?  You take it out, hold your breath and beat it on the ground and/or blow it out with compressed air and install it back into the vacuum.  You end up wearing and breathing the dust that you bought the filter to protect you from in the first place! Not to mention, there's never a convenient time to clean a shop vac filter.   It always  needs to be cleaned in the middle of a job.
3.  How do I know this system is safe?
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Not only have I never had to clean or change my filter, it  still cleans my workshop air as I'm using the vacuum.  Even when I'm vacuuming fine dust from cutting MDF, the air  quality  in my workshop (measured by a Dylos DC1100 Pro laser particle counter)  remains in the "very good" range and particle counts do not rise at all.  If you want to save a few dollars and don't mind buying somewhere other than Amazon then click HERE for more options and  a  lower price.  That's not an affiliate link but the price  difference is enough that I want you to be aware of it.
​​Do I have your attention?  Keep reading and I'll show you how you can do the same thing with just a few components.
4.  Why don't manufacturers make all shop vacs this way?
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You might ask yourself, "If there's a way to design a shop vac so that you never have to clean a filter again then why don't the manufacturers design shop vacs this way?".  The answer is simple.  It is very similar to the situation with home vacuum cleaners 20 years ago... the technology to make home vacuum cleaners bagless had been around for many decades but it was more profitable to sell bags than it was to sell bagless vacuum cleaners.  It wasn't until Dyson gained enough market traction with his bagless "cyclone technology"  vacuum ​ that manufacturers were forced with a decision to either fall behind or adapt their vacuums to consumer demand.  Dyson integrated a 50+ year-old technology into home vacuum cleaners and totally disrupted the entire market.
In the same way, workshop vacuum manufacturers make a lot of $$$ selling filters.  The technology has been around for decades to make a shop vacuum that never requires the filter to be cleaned but manufacturers won't be willing to change until someone disrupts the market with  a product that forces them to give up their cash cow... new filters!  It appears that focus on profits outweighs concerns to offer customers the best product possible.  Although some shop vac manufacturers are starting to integrate cyclones into their systems,  the practice hasn't become widespread yet.
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So, how can you beat the system and save some $$ in the process? 
​5.  What's the secret to NEVER having to clean your shop vac filter?
You will need 5 components to build a maintenance free vacuum system .  If you don't include all 5 components you will continue to have to clean your shop vac filters.  With all 5 working as a system you will never have to change the bag or clean the cartridge filter.  That opens up some very interesting possibilities that you might not consider otherwise.  Since the vac, bag and filter are all in one unit and will never need to be accessed, you can mount the vac in a remote location such as up in the rafters, in a ventilated cabinet or closet, or even outside in a weather resistant enclosure.  
6.  Benefits of never having to touch your shop vac
The most obvious benefits to never having to clean your shop vac filter again are...
  • You save time and money
  • You don't have to breathe or wear the dust that you bought your filter to protect you from in the first place
However, there are some non-so-obvious benefits to this setup.  With a system that doesn't require you to touch your shop vac, except to replace it, you open up the possibilities of mounting the vac system wherever you want.   Your vac no longer needs to be mounted close to the cyclone separator.  That freedom allows MANY more mounting options for each component. 

For instance, you can mount your shop vac...
  • in the attic
  • in a ventilated cabinet or utility room
  • outside of your workshop
  • from the ceiling in an unused area

Simply plumb 2.5" or 3" PVC pipe from the vac to wherever you mount your cyclone separator and waste bin.   If you have a run over 20' then use 3" DWV PVC.  Otherwise, 2.5" will work without affecting the flow rate noticeably.  The waste bin may be mounted on a wall so that it is convenient to  access when it needs to be emptied.    Since the waste bin is independent of the vac, you can use anything from a 5 gallon bucket to a 55 gallon drum.  More about that later.

Caution...
Shop vacs create as much heat as portable heaters so always make sure you mount your vac in a well ventilated  space to allow prevent overheating.

If you build your own creative combination then be sure to share a picture of your setup in the   Shop Hacks Facebook group  so everyone else can see it too!  The Shop Hacks Facebook group is a great place to share and to see other's solutions too.
7.  How to build your own maintenance free shop vac system
​​The figure below illustrates the 5 components needed to build a maintenance free system.    ​ If some of this is new to you, don't feel intimidated.    Putting this system   together   is very easy.  You just purchase any of these components that you don't already have and connect your shop vac hose to the cyclone separator, connect a new hose to the inlet of the cyclone separator, install a bag filter, and you are finished!
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There are many ways to configure the system but this is what the full system may look like. 
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Some people mount everything on a rolling cart with the dust bin and cyclone at the top.   I recommend placing the shop vac in the rafters or in a utility room then running  2.5" to 3" PVC pipe from the vacuum to the cyclone separator  which may be mounted on the wall.  That will allow quiet operation of the vacuum while still  having a convenient way to empty the  collection bin. 

Using the remote power switch I linked to earlier means you never have to touch the vac again.  I attached the power switch  remote fob near the end of my vacuum hose so anytime I want to use the vacuum I just press the power button  near the end of the hose and I'm ready to roll.
The following overview below describes each component in more detail.  If you would like to see  several options for the various components and learn more about how they work then be sure to read the Deep Dive section later in this article.
1.  A cyclone separator  that is designed for a shop vac system
The cyclone separator  is where most of the magic happens. A cyclone separator that is properly matched to the vacuum it is connected to will remove 95% to 99% of the dust from the air stream. That means the bag and filter only have to remove the fine and very fine dust particles.    However, a cyclone alone is not enough to prevent clogged filters.

Most of these cyclone separators will connect to a standard 2" ID shop vac hose.  Some come with an extra hose to connect to the inlet of the cyclone (the hose you use to clean up messes) and some do not so check the details to see if you will need to buy the extra hose or not.


2.  A collection bin
95+% of the dust and debris that enters the cyclone will fall into the collection bin below it.  You can use anything from a 5 gallon bucket to a 55 gallon drum for this.  It has to be able to withstand the vacuum pressure of the  vac and  it must be sealed air tight.   It needs to be sealed air tight and it has to withstand the vacuum pressure a blocked vac hose can produce (up to  500 lbs per square foot). 

If you are careful to not block the hose to your shop vac then just about any 5 gallon bucket will work.  Just mount the cyclone separator to the sealed bucket lid per the instructions, or just put it on the bucket in the case of the Dustopper, and you are ready to go.  If you have a powerful shop vac it can cause the bucket to buckle if the hose gets blocked off more than a second or two.  To prevent this you can cut out a 3/4" thick by 1" deep plywood ring using a jigsaw or a bandsaw and then press it inside of a 5 gallon bucket to prevent it from collapsing under the vacuum pressure of a strong shop vac.


3.  A filter bag
The shop vac filter bag is the key component that most people aren't aware exists or don't think to use.    Normally it would be quite expensive to use bag filters on a shop vac because the bags would fill up very quickly.  However, if you use a cyclone separator upstream of the bag, the bag only gets 1% to 5% of the debris which means it will last the full life of the vacuum without requiring replacement and it prevents your cartridge filter from clogging.

The filter bag captures small particles that would eventually fill the cartridge filter downstream.    With a bag in place the cartridge filter only has to capture the very fine particles that pass through the bag.   That extends the life of the cartridge filter  for the life of the shop vac.  I suggest using a relatively cheap filter bag since you will be depending on the cartridge filter to capture the finest particles downstream.  A cheaper filter bag  is less likely to clog over time since it it passes the finest particles.

4.  A quality cartridge filter
Cheap filter bags don't capture the finest and most dangerous dust and that is fine because we want to depend on a quality cartridge filter to do that job.  Many shop vacs come with quality cartridge filters but some do not.  Make sure your vac has a quality filter so that it doesn't pass harmful fine dust into your workspace.  The most dangerous dust is  too small to see with the naked eye so you have to rely on the performance of your filter.

5.  A vacuum that flows between 100 and 200 CFM.   
Choose a vacuum fits your budget and preferences and  that has at least 100 CFM  of airflow.    I recommend not using anything with less than 150 cfm for general shop cleanup.  If the manufacturer doesn't say how many CFMs the vac flows just look at the amp rating for the motor.  Anything over 12 Amps should work fine.

Disclosure
I am not sponsored by any company so you can be sure that all of the recommendations in this article are unbiased.  I base my recommendations on systems that I use myself and that I've tested and proven to work.  The links in this article are affiliate links.   If you buy products with these links you will pay the same price that you would pay without using the links and Shop Hacks will receive a small commission.  I hope you benefit from  these articles and I thank you for supporting more content like this by using these links for any product that you are interested in purchasing.  Thank you!
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8.    Shop Hacks maintenance-free shop vac   system   recommendations
 If you want a tried and tested system without  reading the rest of this article then you can click images below for the products I personally use and recommend.  I have tested these products and  I can assure you that my setup is very effective.  This is not the cheapest  nor the most expensive system you can buy but it will move more air than most  $700 vacuum systems and I've verified that it does a great job of removing harmful dust from the air.  I have used this system for more than 700 hours (a lifetime of operation for many users) and it still works like new with the original cyclone, vac, bag and filter.  The bag is still less than 1/4 full.
​
​The components I use and recommend:
  1. The Dust Sheriff DIY Standalone Cyclone Separator     ($9.95 for plans)
  2. A Home Depot or Lowes 5-gallon bucket or   5-Gallon Bucket with Sealed Lid   ($8 amazon)
  3. Ridgid VF3502 High Efficiency, Dry Pickup Dust Bags for 12 - 16 Gallon Ridgid Wet / Dry Vacuums   ($18.97 Amazon, 2 Pack)
  4. Ridgid VF6000 Genuine Replacement 5-Layer Allergen, Fine Dust, and Dirt Wet/Dry Vac Filter for Ridgid 5-20 Gallon Vacuums    ($29.95 Amazon)
  5. The Ridgid WD1450 14-Gallon 6-Horsepower Wet/Dry Vacuum   ($188 Amazon)​​

If you prefer to research more options to make a more informed decision based on your personal preferences vs. mine, I will go over each product in detail the Deep Dive section.  The Shop Hacks recommended system consists of the five components previously mentioned.
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1a.  The Dust Sheriff DIY  Cyclone Separator   ($9.95 for plans)
After testing the Dust Deputy and the  Dustopper I designed  a cyclone that you can build yourself in under an hour .  The Dust Sheriff flows 30% more air than the Dust Deputy and separates 5x more fine dust (corn starch used for testing).

The Dust Sheriff is also the only cyclone separator that includes an optional integrated filter inside the cyclone housing.
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1b.  The Dust Deputy DIY Standalone Anti-Static Cyclone Separ ator   ($50 Amazon)
I bought the Dust Deputy because it was the only mainstream shop vac cyclone available when I was researching this topic.  I have tested the Dust Deputy and it removes over 95% of very fine dust like corn starch.  It removes closer to 98% of most dust produced by common equipment such as routers , table saws and the like.  It removes 100% of larger particles such as chips from a planer.    It doesn't perform as well as the Dust Sheriff but it is a solid choice for anything but the finest dust.

There are more expensive and cheaper models from different brands available.  I will cover them in a following section.  They are all about the same efficiency give or take a few percent.
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1c.     Dustopper High Efficiency Dust Separator, 12 in. dia, with 2.5 in hose, 36 in. long  ​($48.75 Amazon, $40 through Home Depot)

I haven't personally used or tested the Dustoppper but I feel comfortable recommending it because I've designed and tested several cyclone separators just like it.  I include it in my recommendations list because it has one specific advantage over the Dust Deputy... it has a much lower height allowing the vacuum hose to connect much lower to the ground.  This  makes it  more stable than the Dust Deputy which is very unstable unless you have it mounted to a cart or some other stable structure.

The Dustopper is likely slightly less efficient  when it comes to removing very fine dust such as drywall or  wood sanding dust.    If you plan to use your cyclone for a lot of very fine dust applications then use the Dust Deputy or one of the other cone shaped cyclones.    Otherwise, the Dustopper should work great.  If you  like the low profile of the Duststopper or the lower price then it is a good choice for most situations.
​
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2.  A 5-Gallon Bucket with Sealed Lid   ($8 Amazon)
You will need a receptacle under the cyclone to catch most of the dust and debris.    You can use this link but if you live near a Home Depot or Lowes you can find  buckets and lids cheaper there.


​
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3.  Ridgid VF3502 High Efficiency, Dry Pickup Dust Bags for 12 - 16 Gallon Ridgid Wet / Dry Vacuums   ($18.97 Amazon, 2 Pack)
This is the bag that I use.  I suggest NOT using a high efficiency bag since the shop vac cartridge filter will handle the very fine particles and a high efficiency bag is likely to clog up before the end of the life of the shop vac.  This link is for a  2-pack of bags.   You probably won't need the second bag but if you get into vacuuming very fine dust, like drywall dust, it is possible you may need to replace the bag at some point so a having a second bag is handy.
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4a.  Ridgid VF6000 Genuine Replacement 5-Layer Allergen, Fine Dust, and Dirt Wet/Dry Vac Filter for Ridgid 5-20 Gallon Vacuums    ($29.95 Amazon)
This filter is made from HEPA rated material.  That means the material will capture 99.97% of all particles 0.3 microns or larger.  I recommend this filter if you frequently vacuum particles that you may be sensitive to.  This is Ridgid's  highest rated filter.  You will lose a small amount of flow rate over time using this filter but it won't be noticeable and this filter offers a high level of protection.

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4b.  Ridgid VF5000 - 3-Layer Pleated Paper Vacuum Filter   ($21.89 Amazon)
This filter is rated slightly lower than the VF6000 but I still didn't detect a rise in particle counts in my shop while using it so I recommend this filter if  you would prefer a slightly higher flow rate with a slight reduction in filtration efficiency.  Either of these two filters will work well.

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5.    The Ridgid WD1450 14-Gallon 6-Horsepower Wet/Dry Vacuum   ($188 Amazon)
​ I like this vacuum because it flows more air than  most shop vacs that cost 3x as much (200 CFM vs 150 or less).  It has a foam liner around the impeller housing (Scroll Noise Reduction Technology) which reduces the high frequency noise  which makes it much easier on the ears.  I would not call it "quiet" but it doesn't have that annoying high pitched whine than most shop vacs have.  I have over 700 hours of use on mine and it is still running like new.

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Power Tip to make your system completely "no touch" .  ($11.99 Amazon)
By adding a remote power switch you can turn the vacuum on and off even if it is mounted out of reach.  I use this switch which is rated for up to  15 Amps.  I've tried other remote switches that all eventually failed within 6 months or so.  This switch has lasted well over a year now.

Think about the possibilities now that you don't have to worry about emptying your vac anymore.     Just run a flex hose from the vac to some 2.5" or 3" PVC to the top of the cyclone separator and collection bin which can be mounted on the wall.
9.  Deep Dive - More options and more insights for the curious...
If you want to   understand how each component works as well as more of the  options available then you are in the right place.  In this section we will discuss each component in more detail and I'll list  several popular options  for each.
How do cyclone separators   work?
Using a cyclone separator is essential to never having to clean your filter again.  ​At 99% efficiency  you will have to vacuum 1400 gallons of dust before you  fill a  14 gallon shop vac bag.  Trust me, the vac will die long before you  reach that mark.

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Cyclone separators come in a huge variety of shapes and sizes.  They range from as small as your finger to larger than a house.  They are always used to separate heavier than air  materials from an air stream.  

To understand how a cyclone separator works, picture a marble entering at high speed into the cyclone inlet shown in the figure below.  As you can imagine, the marble will stay pressed against the outer wall of the cyclone and gravity will pull it down the wall until it falls into the receptacle below.  As it moves down the cone it naturally starts spinning faster which increases the g-forces which pulls it even harder against the wall.  Now picture that marble traveling with a flow of air into the cyclone inlet.  The air will also swirl around the cyclone but it  is pushed out through the cyclone outlet as new air is pushed into the cyclone inlet.  So, the marbles, which are heavy, follow the wall down into the receptacle below and the air flows out the cyclone outlet.
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This configuration separates particles from the air stream remarkably well.  I've designed and tested many cyclone separators over the last few years.  The Dust Deputy cone type cyclone is similar to the one shown above.  In my tests the Dust Deputy removed around 95% of fine corn starch powder, 98% of most sawdust particles and 100% of all chips.     I developed several  variations of a Thien Baffle design, similar to the Dustopper, and the best of those designs performed  within the experiment margin of error compared to the Dust Deputy.    Based on my experiment results from similar systems I would expect the Dustopper to capture slightly less than the Dust Deputy for very fine dust but it should perform equally well for larger particles.  In any case, unless you are vacuuming drywall dust or some other super fine dust, either of these two systems should suffice.
Do you still need to use a filter with a cyclone separator?
Several years ago I designed a cyclone separator that worked so well I could vacuum sawdust without a filter and I could not see or smell any dust coming out of the vacuum.  I was pretty excited about that design.  After I bought a   Dylos DC1100 Pro laser particle counter   to see how well my dust collection systems were working I was shocked to find that when I used that vacuum the dust concentration  in my workshop  air  increased over 20x to levels  4x maximum safe limits.  I was shocked but it was a great lesson that using an air quality meter is essential  if you really want to know if your air is  safe or not.
ALWAYS use a high quality filter downstream of any cyclone separator.  The figure below illustrates how cyclones work well to remove   particles over  10 microns but they pass  most of the particles  under 2.5 microns which are the particles that travel the deepest into your lungs and into your bloodstream.
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Shop vac cyclone separators  options?
Shown below are 5 common models of cyclone separators designed for use with shop vacs (flow rates between 100 and 200 CFM of air).  You can click on any of the photos to be take to  a page with more details about each cyclone.  They are all basically the same conical cyclone design except for the Home Depot Dustopper.    The Dustopper is a Thien Baffle design which is slightly less efficient and is about 8" shorter than the others which makes it much better for any type of mobile or height restricted application where the cyclone and dust bin are not attached to a stable structure.  With the conical cyclone separators,   you pull on the hose which is attached 12" above the  dust receptacle which  will easily tip many designs over.  The  hose for the Dustopper mounts about 2" above the dust receptacle making it more stable.

All of these products will have similar performance characteristics except the Dustopper will be less efficient at separating fine dust.  If you are planning on collecting drywall dust or a lot of sanding dust then it may not be the best option.
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Click on any of the images above to go to the associated product page.
For proper performance you must use a cyclone designed for the flow rate of your vacuum 
Always match the cyclone to a vacuum or blower that falls within the design  parameters of the cyclone.   Since few of the cyclone separator manufacturers list the CFM range their products are designed for this isn't always possible.  In any case, you should be able to use any of the cyclone separators listed in this article with any vacuum that flows  100 to 200 CFM.

If you connect a cyclone designed for a shop vac to a dust collector it will reduce the flow to almost zero and the cyclone won't  separate the dust efficiently.    If you use a very small vacuum with less than 100 CFM of airflow with a shop vac cyclone separator   you will find that it still works well for chips and large dust particles but it will pass a higher percentage of very fine dust.

An option that may be useful in some situations is to connect the outlets of multiple cyclones to a single manifold.    For instance, you could connect 5 of these smaller shop vac cyclones via a manifold to a 600 CFM dust collector.    I can't think of any situations where that would be worth the trouble but I bring it up in case it spurs some ideas in any of the creative types  reading this article.  Oneida offers the  system shown below.  It allows the use of two vacuums connected to three cyclones via a manifold.
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How to make your own cyclone separator
​It is not difficult to fabricate your own   conical cyclone or Thien baffle cyclone system.    You can click on the hyperlinks to find out more about each.
Choosing a collection bin
The most important  things about your collection bin...
1.  It needs to be strong enough to withstand the maximum pressure created when your vac hose is blocked.  
2.  It must be air tight or the cyclone will pass more dust than it would otherwise.

Most full size shop vacs can produce a vacuum pressure of around 3.5 psi which is about 500 lbs per square foot.  That means that if you have a 12"x12" top on your collection bin, it will have to be able to support a 500 lb weight evenly distributed across the top without collapsing.  The forces produced are huge and they are proportional to the area that they act on.  That means that the walls of a large collection bin will experiences forces much higher than those of a small collection bin.
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​Prevent implosion with a simple fix - My shop vac can easily implode any 5 gallon plastic bucket and most trash cans.  To avoid this problem I cut out a plywood ring  to a size that allows it to press fit about halfway down the bucket.  This adds just enough strength to the bucket to prevent it from collapsing when the hose gets blocked.
It is very important that the  collection bin does not leak any air.  Any air that leaks into the collection bin will  flow from the bin and up through the center of the cyclone and out the top of the cyclone.  That air will carry  dust that is circulating in the collection bin which will greatly reduce the efficiency of the cyclone separator.
Choosing a shop vac
-Most  shop vacs flow within the 100 to 200 CFM range.  Manufactures often do not say how many CFMs their vacs flow, but if you look at the amp rating for the motor you can estimate flow rate using the following formula: 

Flow rate =  Max Motor Amps x  16   (for a rough estimate)
I.E. a  motor rated for 11 amps will flow about  11x16 = 176 CFM. 
A motor rated for  6 amps will about to    6x16 = 96 CFM.

This calculation  will not be accurate for every  shop vac but it will get you close if the manufacturer of your shop vac doesn't list the flow rate in their marketing materials.  Most vacs have the motor amps listed somewhere on the vacuum itself.

Typical full size shop vacs pull around 11 amps which equates to between 150 to 200 CFM depending on the overall efficiency of the vac system.  A small shop vac may pull closer to  6 amps which equates closer to 100 CFM.

​Many shop vacs come with quality filters.  However, some come with very cheap filters that catch visible dust but pass almost all of the most harmful very fine dust.  Very fine dust can travel the full extents of your lungs and reach your bloodstream where it can cause inflammation which is the trigger for many types of diseases over time.  I've only tested the Ridgid brand shop vac filters and I can recommend their top two tier filters because I didn't see any increase in particles 0.5 microns and larger in my workshop while vacuuming fine dust with either of those filters installed.  To protect your long-term  health, only use filters that are rated to capture sub micron particles  with  high efficiency.    If you use the advice offered in this article you can spend more money on your filter because it will now last the entire life of your vacuum.

Shop vacs vs. Dust extractors - is there a difference?
There are endless debates about the value of expensive "dust extractors" compared to the common shop vacuum.  There  are reviews that extol the wonderful magic powers of dust extractors  and  they  lead you to believe that anything less is taking a chance on your health.  Fein and the Festool are two    of the most common dust extractors on the market.

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Fein dust extractor
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​Festool 575267 CT MIDI HEPA Dust Extractor
What's the difference?  Is a dust extractor worth  double to 5x the cost?
If you take a shop vac, a dust extractor or even a common house vacuum apart you will find that they all use very similar components.  They all have the following major components...
  1. A brushed motor with a closed impeller to pump air.  Typically around 1200 Watts with a free flow rate of around 150 to   200 CFM and produce between 3 to 4 psi of vacuum when the hose is blocked.
  2. One or more filters
  3. A bin to collect the dust and debris
Extra features that dust extractors have that most shop vacs do not have:
  1. Noise suppression
  2. Speed control
  3. A more efficient form factor
  4. Most "extractors" use quality bearings and brushes for their motors.  Some shop vacs do and some do not.
  5. Auto start power receptacles
Most shop vacs and extractors these days offer quality filters and very good seals to ensure that dust does not bypass the filter.  So, is it worth it to spend 2x to 5x as much to get a dust extractor?  The answer to that question is, "it totally depends on what you value".

What a dust extractor will not do better than a quality shop vac:
  • Filtration.  If you use the setup I recommend in this article and you are NOT vacuuming toxic materials then a shop vac will offer enough filtration to prevent detectable increase in the particle counts in your work area (for particles >0.5 microns).  If you are vacuuming toxic materials  then you need to invest in a certified HEPA vacuum.  
  • Flow Rate.   Most dust extractors flow around 150 CFM and use 1.5" hoses  which are much more restrictive than the 2" ID hoses used with most shop vacs.    The Ridgid  shop vac I use flows closer to 200 CFM.  You will see reviews comparing which vac sucks up water the fastest or how high it will raise a ball in a tube but, honestly, how often do you use your shop vac  to suck up water or to lift balls in the air?  Those tests are designed to favor  particular vacuums.   The only thing that really matters is how many CFM does your vacuum flow in the configuration that you use it in 80% of the time.   Some dust extractors use motors that produce 20% more pressure when the hose is blocked.  This extra pressure may help when connected to tools with very small dust ports (less than 1" ID) but it creates a lower maximum flow rate when the tool is used with an open hose.  Either way, you won't notice a very significant difference between most dust extractors and most full size shop vacs in terms of pressure or flow rate.
  • Noise Level.   This, in my opinion, is the single most beneficial feature of dust extractors vs. shop vacs.  The two dust extractors  listed above operate at a very comfortable noise level with no annoying high pitched whine.  They include a speed control that allows you to turn the speed of the vacuum motor down which lowers the noise level even more.
  • Auto-start power plugs.   Dust extractors include  auto-start power plugs that turn  the vacuum on when you start  a tool that is plugged in.  This is handy for tools like sanders because you don't have to turn the vac on and off each time you turn the tool on and off.  Everything is automatic.  For some work flows this could be a very valuable time saver.  You can buy such  plugs for a shop vac  too to make it work the same way.  One caution... most of these vacs draw around 11 amps  from a 110 VAC outlet.  That only leaves a few amps more until you reach the limit of a 15 amp breaker.  You can get by running a sander and the vacuum on the same circuit as long as there are no other significant power draws on that circuit but you may find yourself kicking a breaker otherwise.
  • Durability.   I've talked to a lot of people who swear their shop vac died a painful death after just a year of light use and there are others who claim that the vacuum their great great grandfather brought from Germany is still running like new  (joke ;-).   I can tell you that my shop vac has over 700 hours of use and it is still running like new on the original bag and filter.  There are differences in motor bearing and brush quality so it is hard to say which models will provide more life.  I think it is safe to say that the very best vacuum motors should not be expected to operate more than 1000 hours before the brushes wear out or the bearings fail.  To date, no one that I know of uses brushless motors in their vacuums.  When they do you can expect the vacuum to last at least 6000 hours before the motor wears out.  It is bound to be on the drawing board by now.
  • Ergonomics.  This is another area where dust extractors have a significant advantage over shop vacs.  They are designed with  a rectangular form  factor that makes them more volume efficient .  You can easily store a dust extractor in a small space .  The Festool system also allows stacking of storage containers on top of the vacuum which is very helpful to some users.  Shop vacs are still manufactured in a cylindrical geometry for some reason.  Maybe manufacturers will wise up one day and stop throwing away over 20% of the capacity they could have if they made  designed their units with a rectangular form factor.

As you can see, there is a reason that the market supports both types of vacuum systems.    The one that works best for you may not work best for me.    Now you know the differences and won't have to believe that extractors have magic powder sprinkled on them to make them and their owners superior to  all others ;-)

I would love to hear from you.  Please don't be shy.  Post  questions or comments  in the comments section below.     Leave a comment to let me know what topics you would like to see covered in future articles.

If you aren't already a part of the Shop Hacks Facebook group then join us  there to share your shop hacks and to get help building your space!
4 Comments

Tool Organization - How to Organize Your Tools Without feeling overwhelmed!

7/15/2019

6 Comments

 
Please comment in the area below this article if you find something that you like, have a tip to share, or if you have any questions.  Comments are a great way to share knowledge and they let me know what you care about the most for future content.
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Do you love to spend time in your  shop,   garage, or work space?  We value every second that we get to spend in "our space" even if it is a mess.  It's a place where we can just relax and enjoy time away from everything else with no expectations other than our own.  Would you like to have someone show you a way to organize your tools that is easy to understand and implement?  ​Would you like to get 25 extra hours to work on your projects every year without taking time from anything else? Would you like to enjoy working in your shop even more than you do now? In this article I'll show you how  do just that.  

Next week's article will cover organizing your hardware and materials.

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Do you feel frustrated that your shop is a mess and you are always walking around things and have to sift through piles of tools and materials on every horizontal surface?  Have you ever tried to tackle tool organization in your workshop only to give up in short order because you  felt overwhelmed just trying to decide what to organize, where to put it and how to hold it?  You certainly aren't alone.  The photo below shows the chaos that was my shop  when I finally reached my breaking point and made the decision to put my head down and get it organized, do or die.  I was tired of walking around things and wasting so much time hunting for tools and materials and seeing every horizontal surface stacked with piles of "stuff".  I had a may false starts and several failed attempts.  In this article I hope to save you a lot of time  and avoid the headaches that almost made me give up before I finally succeeded.

Using the 10 step method  in this article, you can complete the process without feeling overwhelmed.  I'll show you how to estimate how much time you can buy back through organization as well as how to implement the plan.   Your solutions will be completely different than mine but this process will work with any work flow and with any organization system that you choose to use.
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 An Important Note
I think it may have been Adam Savage who said, "drawers and cabinets are where tools go to die".  There's truth in that statement because what is out of sight is often out of mind.     I chose to use an open storage system for my tools.  This saves the time of opening a drawer or door every time I want to use a tool and put it away.  This works in my shop because I have modified my dust collection systems to the point that the air in my shop stays cleaner than the air outside.  That allows open storage without dust building up on everything. 

If you don't have effective dust collection and air filtration in your shop then you may want to consider using cabinets and tool boxes to  keep the dust at bay until you get a chance to get your dust under control.  I'll shared how I did so in my shop in future articles.   The Shop Hacks 10 step system will work regardless of how you plan to store your tools.    The principles and method are the same regardless of how you implement them.  
I worked on organizing my tools and materials one group at a time until all of my active work areas were well organized and every tool in each of those areas had a marked location.

​The secret to establishing order was to pair down the tools and materials to those that I touch on a regular basis and to put everything else out of my work areas and into storage.  LESS is MORE in this case. 

The key maintaining this order for almost two years now is that every tool and all materials have marked locations.
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I could not have imagined how much more I was going to  enjoy working in my shop after I made these changes.  The difference is tremendous.  I work more efficiently but, more importantly, I enjoy using my shop more now.  It's like the difference between using an old worn out tool that you have to stop and fix all the time and using a quality new tool that does the job just the way you want every time.   We love our shop time because it's our time, so why not make the most of it?

​I have everything I need for each task close at hand.  I can grab most tools now without even having to look at them.   It is also much easier  to keep my work spaces clear of piles of tools and materials now that a simple lap around the shop with an arm load of tools at the end of the day, filling in open tool slots, is all it takes to put everything back like it was when I started. That's something I could never do before.
Moving from chaos to order is not easy, but it is extremely rewarding.  It is worth the work and it pays dividends for life.  Try to work on one area at a time so you can build small victories that you will need to carry momentum through this process.    This is a big job.  Look at it as a process that takes time and iteration.  To prevent burnout, expect changes  and don't aim for perfection right away.  The following quote by Mark Twain sums this up very well...

​"Continuous improvement is better than delayed perfection"  Mark Twain

​Here is a summary of 10 steps that will allow you to organize your tools and transform your workspace without feeling overwhelmed.    I'll cover each step in more detail in the following sections. 
I encourage you to print out several copies of the checklist below and place one in each work area that you frequently use.  When you are ready to start organizing that work area fill in the start date and start working through the list one step at a time, not skipping any steps.  When you finish one of your work areas, fill in the finish date and post a copy in the Shop Hacks Facebook group with  before and after pictures.  We would all be so encouraged to see hundreds of these posted over the next year!!
Tool Organization -   The Shop Hacks 10-Step Program 
(details provided in each of the following sections)
​​Work Area _____________________  Start date: __________  Finish date:_________
  1. _______ Clear off a horizontal surface large  enough to hold every portable tool that you  will                                                 use in the next 10 sessions in  one of your work areas.
  2. _______ Store EVERY portable tool that you use over a period of 10 work sessions (and nothing                                    else) in that area.  ​
  3. _______ Put  ALL of the tools that you did NOT use in a storage area separated from your main work                                area
  4. _______ Sort the   tools that you used    into functional groups
  5. _______ Cut multiple pieces of cardboard to serve as mock tool panels. 
  6.  _______ Organize your tools on each mock tool panel, use them for a while like this, and iterate                                       until the layouts work well.
  7. _______ Buy or build permanent tool panels and mount your tools
  8. _______  Mark EVERY tool location.
  9. _______ Store your tool panels near the locations the tools will be used.
  10. _______ ​Repeat this process as needed until you've worked through all of your active work                                                     areas.
Step 1: 
Clear off a horizontal surface large  enough to hold every portable tool that you  will use in the next 10 sessions in  one of your work areas.
​Make sure this area is separated from adjacent areas and  make sure it is a space that you won't need for anything else.  Consider this your tool box over the next 10 work sessions.  It helped me to mark this area off with masking tape to designate the area exclusively for this purpose.  Ideally you will block this area off for at least 10 work sessions so pick an area that you can spare for that long and make sure it is large enough to hold a pile of all of the portable tools that you will use during this time.
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Step 2: 
Store EVERY portable tool that you use over a period of 10 work sessions (and nothing else) in this designated area.  
The ultimate goal for each active work area is to place ONLY the tools that you use 80% of the time within arms reach and put EVERY other tool that was in that area outside of that area in a storage location.  I use a utility room, shelves and a large toolbox to store the items that don't make the cut.  This buys back days of work time per year.   I can't emphasis enough how much better it is to store as few tools as possible in your active work areas.    This frees up your tool wall as well as your mind.  Less is more.  

​It's okay to store the remaining 20% away from your active work areas.  Walking 15' to retrieve them doesn't cost much time overall because you don't have to do so very often.
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Here's an example to objectively demonstrate how simple, organized, open storage can buy 25 more hours per year doing what you love:
Let's say you use 5 different sets of pliers 80% of the time and 10 other types of pliers the other 20% of the time.j

Scenario 1 =  organized open tool storage of those 5 sets (ONLY) at arms reach
Scenario 2 = Toolbox or drawer storage 10' away from where you are working


Time to retrieve =
Scenario 1:  1 second   if they are at arms reach
 Scenario 2:   10 seconds if you have to walk to a toolbox, open a drawer and walk back.
Use the pliers 500 uses over 50 work sessions

Time wasted in each scenario:
Scenario 1:   (500 uses * 1 sec/use) = 500 seconds or  8.3 minutes of wasted time
Scenario 2:   50 sessions * 20  seconds  (retrieve and put back) + 500 uses * 1 sec/use) =  1500 seconds or  25 minutes of wasted time.

You can save over 15 minutes per year for every tool that you place within arms reach vs.   walking to a toolbox to retrieve it.  Multiply this by 100 tools and you gain  around 25 hours/year doing what you love vs. walking and hunting in your shop every decade with one simple change.
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​Let's get started and buy some time!!

During your next 10 sessions in a work area place every tool or set of tools that you physically touch into the area that you designated in Step 1.  It doesn't matter what kind of tool,  if you touch it then put it in this area.  Consider this your toolbox for the next 10 sessions in your shop.  The picture above shows the tools I used during that time.  The type and number of tools will be completely different for everyone so  your pile will most likely look nothing like mine.  Do  NOT put any tools there  unless you actually used them. 

This objective approach will make it easier to separate what you "feel" like you need to organize and what you really "need" to organize to save time which is our primary goal.   Don't worry about missing something during this step.  You will have a chance to evolve and adjust this system in later steps before you spend a lot of time making or buying tool holders.
In general, don't store ANY tools (or sets of tools) in an active work area that you don't physically touch at least once in every 10 work sessions. 

Trust what you actually touch and use and not what you think you will use.   This step is essential to objectively decide    vs. making subjective decisions which inevitably    lead to wasted time.  
 Start small so you can get a feel for this process and build up some confidence.  Do not try to organize your biggest work area or you will probably get frustrated and give up.  Small victories will build momentum.  Maybe you just try this for a sanding area to start with to get the hang then try an assembly area next and then work your way around the shop applying the 10-steps to each area.
What is an active work area?
An active work area is any place that you spend a significant amount of time performing any activity.  The following are just a few examples...
  1. Assembly area
  2. Workbench
  3. Sanding station
  4. Drill press
  5. CNC machine
  6. Computer station
  7. Car lift
  8. Miter saw station
  9. Painting area
  10. Table saw
  11. Sewing station
  12. Sandblasting station
You can apply the 10-steps to one active work area at a time or just use your shop for 10 sessions to see which tools you physically touch and work from there.  The goal is to objectively determine which tools you use often and which ones are better candidates for storage cabinets, drawers or shelves. 
Don't worry that you may leave something essential out.  The following steps leave plenty of opportunities to add more tools as you work through a variety of projects. Your goal here is to build a pile of tools that represent what you actually use 80% of the time in your shop without being subject to your subconscious tricking you into believing you need more.  Don't put a tool in this pile if you did not actually use it.  Trust me.
Step 3:  (this is probably the hardest step to do, but it is one of the the most important)
Put   ALL  of the tools that you   did NOT   use  in a storage area separated from your main work area
This step may go against every fiber of your being.    We are hardwired to put every tool we own on display.    But if you want to spend more time creating, building and fixing and less time hunting and sorting then don't give into the lie that having more tools on your tool wall is better.  Less is more!

Now that you have a pile of tools that you used in a particular active work area, put every other tool away in storage or give it away or throw it away if it isn't useful to anyone.  If you can't bring yourself to do this then you aren't ready for the Shop Hacks 10-Step Program and we will be forced to exercise tough love and  let you suffer in your disorganized mess until you are truly ready to change ;-)    Seriously though, trust me and give this whole process a shot.  If you don't like it you can always add more at the end.  Your tools will still be seconds away.
Step 4: 
Sort the   tools that you used    into functional groups
This step was difficult for me.  There are so many ways to group tools and I ended up trying several layouts before I was comfortable with what I had.  Don't feel like you have to get this right the first time.  In later steps I'll show you how you can  try many different layouts  without wasting much time.

For instance, over a 1-year period I ended up sorting my tools into the following groups:
  1. Cutting and scraping
  2. Marking and measuring
  3. Wrenches and 3/8" drive Allen drivers
  4. Pliers, adjustable wrenches and Allen  wrenches
  5. Screw drivers and various bits
  6. Drilling and boring
  7. Misc. metal working tools
  8. 1/4" and 3/8" drive socket sets
  9. 1.2" drive socket set
  10. Spray paints
  11. Painting tools
  12. Casting tools and materials
  13. Tube caulk and adhesives
  14. Wiring tools ad supplies
  15. Cordless tool batteries and chargers
  16. Most used cordless tools
  17. Infrequently used corded tools
  18. CNC router station
  19. Laser cutter station
  20. Knee mill station
  21. Computer station
You can see most of these functional groups in the following photo.  Notice how the bulk of them are within arms reach when I'm standing at the center of this workbench.    I have other groups in different areas of my shop including 2 other workbenches and several tool stations.  Everything else is stored in cabinets, drawers, a utility room or shelves.  
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The group names and which tools go into each group will be completely custom to the way you use your tools and which tools you have at each active work area.  You will get a chance to try out and adjust your tool groupings later so don't worry about getting them perfect on the first try.  Pursuing perfection will cause paralysis, so just move forward and adjust   anything that you don't care for in a later step.
I'll cover how to sort your hardware and  supplies in next week's article.
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You can see most of the tool groups that I ended up choosing in the picture below.  This photo also shows the Shop Hacks Ultimate Flip Top Workbench which serves as a workbench, downdraft table and assembly table 95% of the time and flips to transform into a miter saw station with  the ​Chop Stop fenceless  miter stop system 5% of the time.   This flip top workbench has been a great addition that adds convenience and  efficiency to my workflow.  The wings fold down and it has a electro-hydraulic lifting mobile base which makes it super easy to move around with just  push of a button.  Click on the link above to see options for plans, hardware and the Build With Confidence Support group.
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The photo below shows my CNC router work area.  I have everything I use 80% of the time within arms reach and the rest is in a drawer under  the base of  the router (drawer added after I took this picture).
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I also made holders for the handheld power tools that I use the most as shown below.    Everything on my tool wall is hung on a French cleat.
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These are just a few examples.  The key is pairing down to the tools you will actually touch frequently and sorting them into groups based on how you use them so you can keep tools as close to your active work areas as possible.
Step 5: 
Cut multiple pieces of cardboard to serve as mock tool panels. 
This is the easiest step of the process.  Determine  how large you want each tool panel to be and cut pieces of cardboard to those sizes.  I chose to make all of my panels 11"x17" because that allowed multiple tool panels to fit into any of my toolbox drawers.  As it turns out, using this system I was able to mount ALL of them on my tool wall and I very rarely have to get anything from my toolbox anymore.
Step 6: 
1.     Organize your tools on each mock tool panel.  Use them for a while like this then iterate  until you are happy with the layouts.
This step is  also very simple but may take some time.  The idea is to try  out your layouts before you commit a lot of time to building tool panels to mount your tools.
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I  kept my tools laying on these cardboard panels like this for a couple of months as I used them.  I put the tools back on their designated panel after I finished using them each day.  If I didn't like where or how a tool was placed I simply rearranged and regrouped them as I went.  This let me test out my layout before spending a lot of time building the tool panels.  I found that I had to add some tools that didn't make the cut during earlier steps and I also removed some tools that were not getting used.  Once I was comfortable that I had my tools paired down to ONLY the ones I use 80% of the time, I moved on to the next step.    I should note, even though I went through all of these steps I still ended up making some changes later on.  However, the changes were minimal and didn't take  nearly as much time as they would if I would have  had I not tested my layouts before building the tool boards.
Step  7
​
Buy or build permanent tool panels and mount your tools
These are a couple of the tool holders that I made to hold my tools.  These were built using 1/4" Baltic birch  plywood panels and 3/4" cleats to connect to French cleat rails on my tool wall.  
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There are several  very nice premade tool organizations systems available if you want to save some time by using a ready-made system.  I'll include some options to consider  below.
The following products are affiliate links.  When you use these links you pay the exact same price that you would otherwise pay but Shop Hacks receives a small commission  for the purchase.    Using these links is a great way to support more content like this in the future.  Thank you for your support!
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Heavy Duty Neodymium Channel Magnets  45 LB Holding Power  for Doors, Cabinets, Gun Holders - 8 Pack Screws Included

Channel magnets focus the force and make organizing much easier.
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Wall Control Standard Workbench Metal Pegboard Tool Organizer
  • More than ten times stronger than conventional pegboard, Panels 32in x 16in (Covers 48in x 32in when Installed)
  • Galvanized steel pegboard panels accept slotted, stable, and more secure hooks, pegs, brackets, and shelves
  • Magnetic panels prevent the pegboard holes from fraying and wearing out over time
  • Steel pegboards are constructed with a pre-formed 3/4-inch flange that separates the panel storage surface from the wall
  • Pegboard panels mount directly into studs or sheet rock with no framework required
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​Wall Control KT-200-DLX BU Slotted Storage Panel Deluxe Hook Assortment for Wall Control Pegboard and Slotted Tool Board – Blue
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​Vanitek 4 Heavy-Duty 12" Magnetic Tool Holder Racks

Magnet bars make organizing very flexible and easy for many types of tools.
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Power Tool Charging Station

​Three-tier savings shelf : Lowest compartment will hold five handheld drills hanging upside down, The other two-tier are sized to hold skill saws, reciprocating saws, flashlights or other battery operated tools.
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VonHaus 44 Piece Wall Mounted Pegboard Hook, Storage Bins and Panel Set
  • Versatile 44pc storage solution for workshops, garages and sheds. Perfect for organizing hand tools, accessories and small parts such as, screws, washers, nuts, bolts, nails, clips and more!
  • Features four large bins measuring 8.38 x 4.05 x 2.83 inches, 12 medium bins measuring 6.41 x 4.05 x 2.83 inches, 12 small bins measuring 4.60 x 4.05 x 2,79 inches plus 14 tool storage accessories
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DEWALT DWST08270 ToughSystem Workshop racking + Clear Lid Organizer
  • COMPATIBILITY: Compatible with all Tough System modules
  • CUSTOM ORGANIZATION: Customized organization with an array of arrangement options
  • MAX WEIGHT: Robust racking solution can load up to 440 lbs
  • BRACKETS: Brackets support shelf add-on option
  • STACKABLE MODULES: Stacking side latches allow attaching additional Organizers or other Tough System modules
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​5S TOOL BOX SHADOW FOAM ORGANIZERS (2 COLOR) CUSTOM SIZE (12" x 24", Black Top/Red Bottom)



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Fastcap Kaizen Knife

Use this knife to make clean deep cuts in foam tool holder boards.
Step  8
Mark EVERY tool location.
You may be tempted to skip this step but don't...  It is a game changer.
This is another very simple but very important step.  I tried several methods.  The easiest one was to simply mark an outline of each tool using a permanent marker.  I intended to come back and make something more refined but this worked so well I never felt compelled to change it.  These tools are held in place with neodymium magnets.  Some of the larger items use mini stop blocks too.
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Another unique way to mark tool locations is to take a photograph of the tool board and glue the photos onto each tool location using a spray adhesive.  This works great but it is time consuming.
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Using marked locations for tools is great at the end of the day when you just scoop up a handful of tools and take a lap around the shop filling in empty marked locations.  There's something very satisfying about doing this.  I rarely end a day anymore without putting all my tools away.  Before I had a specific marked location for every tool I rarely put tools away and I ended up having to shuffle tools and materials around for 10 minutes just to get started the  next morning.  Not to mention the time wasted trying to remember where I put things.
Neodynium magnets are great to have around anytime you want to build a tool organizer.
Step  9
Store your tool panels near the locations the tools will be used.
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I can't overstate how important it is to keep  80% of the tools you use in any active work area within arms reach of where you use them most of the time.  It saves a lot of time but another benefit is that it makes your work more enjoyable.  You may be used to walking back and forth across your shop to get tools to make or fix something but once you get used to  being able to reach almost everything you need without moving you will wonder how you ever worked any other way.

Step  10
Repeat this process as needed until you've worked through all of your active work areas.
Start with small organization tasks to build momentum. then work your way to the active work areas that you use the most and get those worked out.  Keep going until you've organized all of the areas that you frequently use.    After that you can keep going but you have diminishing returns.  I still have quite a few areas of my shop that need to be organized but just having the areas I use 80% of the time worked out has made all the difference.

Have fun, enjoy the process and eat this elephant one bite at a time. 

Please leave comments below.  I encourage you to ask questions, share your own organizing tips and share what you would like to see in future articles.

​Affiliate links may be used on this page.     As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.  Shop Hacks exists to help you Build YOUR Space!
6 Comments

Workshop Air Filtration System Performance Shootout - Including Effective, Low-Cost DIY Box Fan Filtration Systems

6/28/2019

28 Comments

 
Copyright 2019, Shop Hacks, all rights reserved
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Dust is like a bully… you don’t know how to avoid him so you just give him your lunch money.  Then one day you learn how defend yourself.  Once you learn how to beat the bully, you are free and you never have to be bothered by him again…  

Do you enjoy cleaning, wearing and breathing dust in your home or workshop?  This is the first in a series of articles that will empower you with the knowledge you need to beat dust in your workshop without spending a fortune on dust collection and air filtration systems. 
​
We tested 8 different  air filtration systems to determine which ones worked best and how you can can have cleaner air in your home or workshop without spending a small fortune.  We tested and compared several commercial air cleaners, a household HEPA air filtration system and several DIY air filtration solutions including a super cheap and simple box fan with a furnace filter.  We used a laser particle counter  to measure dust removal and air filtration performance so you can have confidence that the results presented in this article are objective and reliable.    You  no longer have to rely on Internet opinions.

For more Shop Hacks tips to help you Build Your Space and check out the following pages...
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I am not sponsored or compensated   by any company  so you can rest assured that all of the results in this test  are unbiased.  I spent several hundred dollars of my own  money and a week and a half of my time to bring this to we can all see which systems may work best for your shop.  My hope is that many of you will use this information to build an even better filtration system and then share it with the community.  I hope the information presented in this article empowers you to create your own air filtration system.  Shop Hacks exists to help you Build Your Space and clean, healthy air is certainly a foundational component of getting the most out of your shop time!

I encourage you to interact in the comments section of this blog and to share the link with friend  and groups that may benefit from this information.  Link to this article HERE.
Is dust really a problem?
That's a great question that doesn't get much attention.   Everyone knows an old-timer who brags about breathing 10 gallons of dust a day for 30 years without a problem.  So, is dust really a problem or is it just something that  we can ignore so we can focus on getting  projects out the door?

Let's start with   a couple obvious benefits of having a nearly dust free workshop...

​1.  You will   spend more time making, building and fixing and less time cleaning  if you capture the dust before it settles on your tools and floor. 

​Did you enjoy cleaning your room when you were a kid?  We all know the answer to that question.  Then why do you not mind having to clean up your shop after every project?  I spent 3 hours cleaning all the dust off of everything after this test.  If I would have used my dust collection and air filtration systems there wouldn't  have been any dust to clean up at all and I would have spent those 3 hours working on something I enjoy.
 

​With effective dust collection and air filtration you will spend more time making, building and fixing and  MUCH less time cleaning.
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2.  Using open tool storage  can save hundreds of hours per year if you work in your shop every day.  

​If you can capture the dust before it lands on your tools and materials you can use open tool storage which is much more time efficient than storing tools in boxes or  cabinets.  
 
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​Open tool storage requires no secondary operations to use a tool  and can save hundreds of hours over the course of just one year.    
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 You don't have to look for tools, you can grab them and put them back without having to open a drawer or  door.  However,  if you don't have good dust collection open tool storage isn't feasible because dust would cover them in no time.  However, if you modify your tool dust ports and install an effective air filtration system then you won't have to worry about dust on anything.  I've had the open storage system shown in the picture above for over 2 years now and I never have to clean any dust off.  It is a joy to be able to reach for and put away most of the tools I use every day without having to walk to a cabinet or open a door or drawer.  ​
3.  Dust is an invisible enemy to your long-term health. 

The dust that does the most damage in your body is the dust that you can't even see.    You can see  dust particles as small as   100 microns.  Dust that is 100 microns or larger is very likely to get trapped in your nose, throat or upper respiratory system and  coughed back out so it doesn't pose as much risk as the very fine particles.   However, larger particles can still lead to allergies or  nasal cancer due to  the chemicals that are in wood products.   Dust from some exotic wood species also expose you to a higher risk for allergies and nasal cancer.  You can find a table listing the relative toxicity of different wood species HERE.
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Image from ​   https://www.epa.gov/pm-pollution/particulate-matter-pm-basics
An even larger problem lies with dust that is so small that you can't see it.  Dust consisting of particles that are  5 microns and smaller can travel the to the full extents of your lungs and enter your bloodstream.  Think about what is in the dust you breathe.  MDF, plywood and treated woods are full of chemicals from glues, binders, formaldehyde, and other chemical agents.    You would never consider allowing someone to inject even trace amounts of these into your blood with a needle but that's essentially what you are doing every time you breath these particles.  They enter the blood which  leads to inflammation which is  at the root of many diseases.

I started taking dust collection and air filtration seriously after leading a NASA research project that studied the effects of recycling plastics in space.  Part of that project included researching the ​ long term effects of airborne particulates  on human health.  That research convinced me to start taking dust collection much more seriously. I didn't want my hobby to negatively impact my long-term health.  I purchased a laser particle counter so I could see the dust that  was previously invisible to me.  Once I could see what tools were the worst offenders and how bad the air quality really was in my shop most of the time, I redesigned the dust ports of the worst offending tools then I worked my way to the rest one by one.  In future articles, I'll show you how to modify your tool dust ports to make them MUCH more effective at capturing dust.  A little hint though, if you can capture the dust before it gets more than 1" away from the source you don't need an expensive dust collection system to do a very effective job.  You can't always capture 100% of the dust so I developed air filtration systems to reduce the time that any dust that  escaped my dust collection systems  stayed in the air.   Those systems are included in the testing performed here.

​Now I enjoy  a nearly dust free shop with air that is typically 10x cleaner than the  air outside the shop.  I now go into    my shop to get a breath of fresh air.  Clean and safe air was my initial goal but saving time and not having to  wear, breathe or clean up the dust were wonderful side benefits that I would never want to do without now that I've become accustomed to them.  I never knew how much I would  come to love being able to make a cut without wearing or breathing any dust.   In the early part of the 20th century people scoffed at the idea of indoor plumbing.   Who needs that in their house?  Once they realized the benefits it was obvious that the old way was outdated.  Some people still have an outdated view regarding dust collection and air filtration.  We are getting close to a major shift in attitudes regarding dust collection in the workshop.  This article should help further the knowledge that can save your health and buy you more time doing what you love to do.
In this article you will learn...
  • How effective are air filtration systems?
  • How can you improve the performance of your air filtration system?
                      (I  improved the Powermatic PM 1200 system performance over 30% with a free, 30 second 
                       modification)
  • Will an air filtration system replace effective dust collection?
  • How much do air filtration systems cost?
  • What features should I look for?
  • What are the benefits to using an air filtration system? 
  • Do air filtration systems really make a noticeable difference?
  • Test results
    • Using scientific testing, how well did each air filtration system perform? 
    • How does a $37 DIY air filtration system measure up to a $500 system? (spoiler alert... surprisingly well)
    • Do the types of filters used make much difference?
    • Does    the location or orientation of the system in your home or workshop matter?
    • Are DIY box fan filtration systems safe?
    • Should I use a furnace blower or an axial fan?
  • How to choose the right size air filtration system for your home or workshop?
  • How much do air filtration systems cost to operate?
  • How do the noise levels of the various air filtrations systems compare?
Air Filtration System Features, Testing, and Results
Air Filtration   System Features
Retail air filtration systems include a couple  features that you may find helpful.

Remote  control:    Remote controls are nice if you want to turn the air filtration system on/off without having to reach it.  I keep my remote next to the door so as I leave the shop I can set a timer to run the air filtration system for a couple hours to clear any remaining dust from the air.  The remotes allow powering on/off, changing air speed and setting the countdown timer. 

There are two types of remotes, 1) radio frequency(RF) and 2) infrared (IR).  RF remotes work even if there is not a clear line of sight between the transmitter and receiver.  Infrared (IR) remotes require a direct line of sight to work so they  will not work if there's anything between the remote and the receiver.   Think of an IR remote as a flashlight.  If you can't hit the receiver with a beam of light from the transmitter  it won't work.   I recommend buying units that come with RF remotes.
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Timers:   Timers allow you to set the air filtration system to run  1 to 9 hours after you leave the shop.  The WEN unit has settings for 1,2 and 4 hours.  The Powermatic unit allows up to 9 hours.  Timers are handy because you can make your last cut just before leaving your shop then set the air filter to run for a couple of hours to clean the air without having to stick around.    That reduces the fine layer of dust that coats everything.
Systems Tested
Table 1​  summarizes, in no particular order, the systems tested as well as their various performance characteristics and features.  The best  of each category is highlighted in green.
You will also find the results of the following tests summarized in Table 1.  
  • Time to bring particle counts from 1M to 300k (just below the very unhealthy air quality level)
  • Time to bring particle counts from 1M to 30k (to the "good" air quality level)
  • Max power consumption  (Watts)
  • Operating flow rate (CFM)
  • Max static pressure (in-wc)
  • Noise Level (dB 6' away from the outlet)
  • Filtration efficiency (particle concentration in / particle concentration out)
  • Cost to run each system 10 hours/day for one year.
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Table 1 – Air filtration systems specifications and features
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We also tested and documented the following ...
  • Box fan with a discount brand filter
  • Particle counts over time with dust collection OFF and  Air filtration system OFF
  • Particle counts over time with dust collection ON and Air filtration system OFF
You can find a summary of results in the Test Results Summary section.
Lessons Learned...
  1. A DIY air filtration system can be more effective than an expensive retail system and is capable of making the air in your home or workshop much cleaner than the air outside. 
  2. One or two table saw cuts without effective dust collection can raise workshop dust particle concentrations to well above unhealthy levels.  Without an air filtration system these particles can accumulate to extremely unhealthy concentrations and linger in the air for over 5 hours.
  3. Effective dust collection is the only way to maintain a health work environment.  Air filtration systems reduce the time that unhealthy dust concentrations persist but they are easily overwhelmed    with even a small number of cuts.   Using a good dust collection system is 100x more effective than an air filtration system but both systems should be used.
  4. Having a way to measure dust concentrations in your home or workshop is invaluable if you value your health and want a way to know if what you are doing works or if it    does not work.  I recommend researching some of the new air quality meters on Amazon if you are looking for a lower cost option.  I used the   Dylos DC1100 Pro laser particle counter    for these tests.
  5. In my testing, a low-cost DIY air filtration system outperformed a $500 retail air filtration system as well all other retail systems tested including a HEPA filtration air purifier.
  6. Floor fans create more pressure and more flow than box fans so they work better for this type of application.
  7. It is important to match the filter configuration to the fan being used to maximize efficiency and not waste power or money.  More filter area is always better if you have room for it.
  8. The best air filtration system performed about the same as putting one box fan (no filters)  in a window blowing in and one fan blowing out.
  9. One system that I use with 2-year-old dirty filters still performs relatively well compared to brand new systems.  If you don't heat or cool your workshop you can just use fans with no filters and they will work as well or better.  If you heat or cool your shop then an air filtration system is definitely worth the small investment.
  10. I DO NOT TRUST DISCOUNT OR CHEAP FILTERS.  Under the same test conditions, a   discount filter that was rated as MERV 12  was very ineffective in my tests compared to a 3M filter rated at MERV 11. I won’t use a discount filter or a filter rated less than MERV 11   unless I have a way to verify that it is working to the claimed specifications.  You can not tell just by looking for visible dust in the filter since the dust that affects your health is too small to see.  Some filters are simply placebos and may not  protect you.
  11. Using a separate fan to recirculate air around the shop did not affect the air filtration system efficiency at all.
  12. The size of your workshop affects how air filtration systems perform.  For a large shop, dust concentrations won't go as high but they will take longer to filter to safe levels.
  13. Even with   completely  blocked flow, the motors in the two box fans that I tested only heated up to 80F.  These particular fans  would not overheat due to a completely clogged filter.
  14. The location of your filtration system can have a significant affect on your workshop temperature.   Air near the floor can be as much as 10F cooler than air above your head.  Consider this when you mount your air filtration system so you don't  heat the air during the summer or cool it during the winter.
  15. Aim for enough air flow to achieve 6 air exchanges per hour based on the fan flow rate and the volume of your shop.  However, that rule of thumb doesn’t tell the whole story.  All that really matters is how quickly your system can lower dust concentration levels.
  16. Running 10 hours per day the units tested will cost between $3/month and $10/month in electricity costs.
  17. Contrary to popular belief, most furnace blowers (squirrel cage) use LESS power as the flow is restricted.  (this is true for most types but not all).  If you keep the filter clean it will not harm your furnace blower motor.  If you don't keep it clean it can overheat your furnace blower motor.
Test Results Summary
For those of you who just want the facts without the commentary then Figures 1 and 2 and Table 2 summarize,  at a glance, the performance of all of the systems tested.  You can read about specific nuances of each system and several of the important lessons learned in the Systems Performance Summary section.  You can go straight to the Recommendations section if you don't care to know how it works and just want to get started right away.
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Figure 1   – This Chart Summarizes the Performance of all the Systems Tested
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Figure 2 – Time required to clear the air in a 24’x32’x8’ workshop
(Clear from 1 million particles per cubic foot to 30,000.  Particles > 0.5 microns)
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Table 2 –  Time required to clean the air from
​1M to 30,000 particles/ft3 (particles > 0.5 microns)
>300,000 = "Very Unhealthy"
​  <30,000 = "good" air quality

​

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Shop    Hacks   Recommendations 
Best of test...
This system cleared the air in my 2 1/2 car size workshop to a very healthy dust concentration in just 27 minutes compared to over 40 minutes for the Powermatic PM 1200.    With just one set of the filters recommended below this system will perform even better.  This system has two advantages over a simple single filter box fan system - this fan produces more static pressure and more flow and the 2-filter configuration creates 1/4th as much pressure drop as a 1-filter system.

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Components: $90
Lasko 20" High Velocity Fan 2264QM  (Recommended for dual filter V-configuration setup)
In the test I used MERV 6 and MERV 11 filters stacked .  However, after further research I recommend using  one   3M   Filtrete MPR 1900  20x20x1 filter   on each side      to provide even more airflow AND better filtration efficiency.
​(or one 20x25x1 on each side would be even better)
One caveat to furnace filter and axial fan type systems... for a one or two filter system, the flow rate will decrease faster using an axial fan (box fan) than with a cage (furnace) blower system as the filters load with dust.  This means that you will need to clean the filters regularly to maintain performance or use a 4 filter configuration (each filter handling 1/4th of the airflow) to outperform the squirrel cage blower systems even with dirty filters.  Axial fans deliver 1/10th to 1/5th as much static pressure as cage blowers so you will need at least 3x as much filter area to match a cage blower system performance as the filters start to clog.  A 4-filter system should have approximately 1/16th as much pressure drop for any given flow rate compared to a 1-filter system.

The Shop Hacks Ultimate Air Filtration System uses 5 filters so CFM is maintained even as the filters become caked with dust.
Best compact DIY Box Fan Filtration System
This system is recommended for a compact and hassle-free way to move toward a healthier work environment.  Use one of these for each 2500 cubic feet of workshop volume (15x20x8, 1 car garage).    Two of these units should offer close to or slightly less than the performance of one ($500) Powermatic PM 1200 air filtration system if you keep the filter cleaned out.

The following accessories make it a little easier  but you don't need them if you don't want to use them.   Duct tape works fine also.
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(optional)   Silicone box fan filter grips  (I used these for the box fan filter tests.  They are recommended if you value simplicity of use over cost)
(optional)    Cardboard magnetic filter holder    (I didn't use this but it may be worth looking at if you you like a more finished look.  It certainly is not required to obtain good performance)


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Components: $48
Pelonis FB50-16HB   Good build quality, front controls.  Not sold on Amazon but the link provided is the same fan distributed by a different company.)

In the test I used MERV 6 and MERV 11 filters stacked .  However, after further research I recommend using a single  
3M Filtrete MPR 1900  20x20x1 filter  (NOT  2 filters as shown in the photo) to provide even more airflow AND better filtration efficiency.

Deep Dive - Continue reading if you are the type that wants to understand more about this topic including how these tests were performed.
Will a clogged filter on a box fan cause a fire?
We might as well discuss this first since it is bound to come up in any discussion.    Are box fan filtration systems a safety hazard?  It is definitely worth asking the question.
We completely sealed the back side of two models of box fans and ran them for 20 minutes with a thermocouple attached to the motor housing.  The motor only warmed a little bit.  Internal circulation in the fan was more than enough to keep the motors cool.

This doesn't mean every model is safe so the only way to be sure is to test your fan.
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You will see many people claim that a box fan will overheat if the filter  becomes clogged. I  put it to the test.  I  placed a thermocouple on the metal motor housing of two different box fan models and COMPLETELY blocked the airflow by duct taping a piece of cardboard completely covering the rear of the fan so that no air could pass.  I ran the fans for 30 minutes which was long enough for them to reach their maximum temperatures.  In each case the motor housings stabilized at around 82F in a shop air temperature of 70F.  ​
Fans create a lot of flow in and out of the front grate even if the rear is blocked.  Apparently, for the two fans I tested, that was enough circulation to keep the motors cool.  The fact that the filter keeps dust from accumulating on the fan motor housing and coils probably offers more protection than danger in most cases.   A box fan filtration system will work with the filter on the front or the  rear.  However, you should mount the filter on the  inlet side to protect the motor and blades from dust and lint accumulation.

While this is not a definitive test by any means, I believe it is enough to calm any fears I have that a clogged filter will cause either of these two fan models to start a fire.  If you are worried you should to run the same test with the model fan that you choose to use.

Conclusion:  I don't believe a clogged filter could start a fire in the two fan models that I tested.  However, that doesn't mean that every fan model is safe or that these fans couldn't change over time so you should assume that your fan can catch fire if you don't keep the  filters clean enough to flow plenty of air unless you test it yourself.    I have heard two first-hand accounts from friends who said that they have had a box fan catch fire or almost catch fire.
​


​Motor temperature rise with the back side of two different fan models ​with    
completely blocked  air flow.
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Filtration Performance Test protocol
Each test consisted of cutting about 12 ft of ½” MDF and 12 ft of ¾” melamine on a table saw with the blade elevated 2” above the stock (to create even more dust).  This raised the dust concentration levels in the shop to over 1,000,000 particles per cubic foot for particles > 0.5 microns.  After the cuts were completed and the particle count reached the limit, the air filtration system was turned on and particle counts were  logged from 1M particles/ft3 (very unhealthy air quality) until the level reached 30,000 particles/ft3 ("good" air quality).  




​We cut several feet of MDF and melamine for each test to bring particle counts over 1 million particles per cubic foot (particles > 0.5 microns).  The air filtration system being tested was turned on and particle counts were logged using a Dylos DC 100 Pro laser particle counter with a computer interface until levels dropped below 30,000 particles per cubic foot which is considered "good" air quality.
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For reference,   according to the laser particle meter manufacturer,  particle counts over 300,000 particles per cubic foot is "Very Poor" air quality.  Particle counts under 30,000 particles per cubic foot are considered "Good " air quality.  The graphs below show how quickly the various systems tested  lower the particle counts over time.  Typical particle counts for the outside air where I live (in the Ohio Valley) average between 50,000 and 100,000 particles per cubic foot for particles > 0.5 microns.  The air quality here is not very good but it is excellent inside my workshop.
​System Sizing Considerations
This is a good place to include this information since the test results presented in this article are affected by the volume of my workshop.  If you run the same test in a smaller shop the particle concentration will go much higher and will drop much faster.  In a larger shop the particle counts won't rise as high and it will take longer to bring them down to safe levels.

​My workshop is 24'x32'x8' 2 1/2 car garage which is 6144 cubic feet.  To determine the  volume of your workshop just multiply the length x width x height.    If you  don't have a flat ceiling then the  volume will be less.     Unfortunately you won't be able to simply compare your shop  volume to mine to determine what size system you need.  The general rule of thumb is to choose a system that will move enough air to pass the full volume of your shop at least 6x per hour.  So, if your shop has 6000 cubic feet of air volume then aim for a unit, or multiple units that can flow at least 600 CFM combined.  (I.E. 6 air exchanges per hour x 6000 cubic feet = 36,000 cubic feet per hour.  Divide that by 60 minutes per hour and you get 600 CFM minimum flow rate target.  However, any air filtration is better than no air filtration  as long as the system uses decent filters.  

REMEMBER... effective dust collection should ALWAYS be a first priority.  No air filtration system can protect you from harmful concentrations of dust unless you have effective dust collection.
An important note about flow and filter ratings and flow rate
When I started the tests for this article I noticed that the MERV 6 filter that I was using as a prefilter had nearly as much pressure drop as the  MERV 11 main filter.  I assumed that a  higher rated filter would  be much more restrictive.  However, I looked into it some more and found several references that  showed that MERV ratings and  flow restriction are not always related.  As  you can see in Figure 3 below, a higher  filter rating doesn't always mean the filter will be more restrictive.  I haven't verified these results myself but they indicate that the Filtrete 1900 filter is superior in both filtration efficiency and flow rate compared to several other filters, including filters with lower MERV ratings.
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Figure 3 – A higher MERV rating doesn't always mean a filter will be more restrictive
As a result of this finding, I  recommend that you use the   Filtrete MPR 1900  20x24x1 filter  or the 20x20x1 size for any filtration system you make yourself.    It provides a slightly higher efficiency an a lower pressure drop that the filters I used in this test.  Using a cheap fiberglass prefilter in front of the MPR 1900 filter will help extend the life of the high grade filter and prevent it from damage when you sweep the lint off the prefilter.

Figure 3 shows that a MERV 13 filter can have a lower flow resistance than a MERV 11 filter but that is not to say that it will ever have less flow restriction than a cheap fiberglass filter.  That's certainly not the case.  However, cheap fiberglass filters are simply lint filters and do nothing to protect your health.

 Side Note... Will a high grade pleated filter shorten the life of your furnace blower motor?
I won't go into great detail here but this is a good time to talk about filters verses fan motor life.    I tested several of the systems used in this test with no filters, with filters and with the inlet or outlet completely blocked.  In every case the squirrel cage blower motors drew much less power when completely blocked compared to  without any filters.  The axial fans drew about 10% more power when the air flow was completely blocked.    There are some furnace motor types that this  doesn't apply to but, even with those, the difference in power used will be very small.

You will hear almost every HVAC tech you talk to say, "high grade filters will kill your furnace blower motor!".  That is true if you allow the filter to completely clog to the point that it doesn't flow enough air to cool your blower motor.  It is not true otherwise.  In many cases, the motor will draw less power with a high grade filter.    My testing has shown that  some MERV 13 filters have a lower air flow resistance than most lower rated filters.  The only exceptions are the very cheap fiberglass filters that only remove lint and very large dust particles.

Conclusion:  
You should...
1. Use the   Filtrete MPR 1900  filter   which has a LOWER flow resistance and a HIGHER filtration efficiency than any other 1" filter I've tested if you can be sure to clean or change this filter before the flow rate gets too low.
​                               ---OR----
2.  Use an ultra cheap fiberglass filter that can get very dirty before it starts restricting airflow much at all.  These are unlikely to ever restrict airflow enough to overheat your furnace blower motor.

Don't use a filter in between because filters in between these two will restrict air flow more  that the cheap fiberglass filters and the Filtrete MPR 1900  filter   AND they will filter fewer particles than the   Filtrete MPR 1900  filter 
​
Who should use high grade furnace filters?
  • People who would never forget to clean and/or change their furnace filter
  • People who value clean air in their home or  workshop
  • People who don't mind paying extra $$ to maintain cleaner air 
Who should NOT use high-grade furnace filters?
  • Anyone who might forget to clean or change their furnace filters
  • Anyone who doesn't care about clean air enough to pay for more expensive filters
Systems Performance Detailed Summary
Let's start the countdown starting with the worst and working our way to the best...
​

​
#11 

No dust collection or air filtration
$Free (except for the cost to your long term   health)

Baseline Level

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#11  Of course, the least effective method was to use no dust collection and no air filtration.    However, the takeaway from this baseline test is to understand how unhealthy your workshop air can become after just a few cuts if you don't have effective dust collection and no air filtration.  Don't ignore this warning.  If you spend enough time breathing  high concentrations of dust it certainly will affect your health one way or another.  Most often people never connect the symptoms with the cause.


​​

​#10 
,   $29
​
Holmes HBF 2001DP-BM  20" box fan with one discount 2x20x20 "MERV 12" Filter

In my tests, the discount filter performed only slightly better than no filtration at all.   I only use 3M or Honeywell filters unless testing shows a different brand also performs well.  So far, only 3M and Honeywell filters have performed well in my tests.
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To #10 In almost every video I've watched showing how to build  "the ultimate box fan filtration system" they use cheap fiberglass filters or low grade filters.  I cringe when I see this because most of those systems will catch large particles but they do little to nothing to remove fine particles.    In some cases these systems may do more to keep very fine dust stirred up than anything else.

In this test I used a 20x20x2" discount MERV 12 Filter strapped to a   Holmes HBF 2001DP-BM   box fan.   The discount filter claims to meet the MERV 12 specification.  However, as you can see in Figure 4, the discount filter (with a claimed MERV 12 rating) didn't perform much better than using no filter at all!  I won't trust my health to  to filters rated less than MERV 11 or to brands that I haven't personally tested with satisfactory results.     I've tested 3M (Filtrete), Honeywell and discount filters.  The 3M and Honeywell filters have always met or exceeded their marketing claims. 

I ordered the discount filters  two separate times several months apart from Amazon just to make sure I didn't receive a defective product the first time.  Both  filters performed exactly the same.  I sent them back.  I suggest if you use any brand other than 3M or Honeywell directly from a big box store that you use an air quality meter to check to see if it performs to your expectations.  Try comparing different brands to see what  it reveals. 
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Figure 4   – Comparison tests
I won't trust my health to discount filters or discount brands unless I have tested them and they prove effective.  

Based on my testing, I trust 3M (Filtrete) and Honeywell filters.    They met or exceeded expected filtration values in every test.



​


​​

​
#9  ,   $126
WEN 3410
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#9     WEN 3410    - The 3410 is also a very popular model because it  is very inexpensive at $126 including shipping.  The WEN came in as the quietest option of the test but that is expected because it moved the least amount of air.  As with the Powermatic, the advertised 400 CFM flow rating is overstated.  I measured  257 CFM with brand new filters and 357 CFM with no filters installed.  In terms of filtration performance for the price it is on par with the Powermatic PM 1200 but you would need to buy 4 WEN 3410 systems to equal the performance of one Powermatic PM 1200 system.

The WEN 3410 took almost two hours to bring the dust concentrations below 30,000.  That means this system would be most appropriate for very small shed shops.   Even in a larger shop it is much better than nothing but it is only worth the $$ if you don't want to put together a DIY system yourself.

If you already have this system I suggest ditching the stock prefilter and building a custom intake frame so you can use a   Filtrete MPR 1900  20x24x1 filter  as the prefilter.   I didn't test the results but I'm confident that this will improve the performance of this system significantly by lowering pressure drop, increasing the flow rate and increasing the prefilter efficiency.

​


​​#8    ​     ,   $37 (as tested)
Holmes HBF 2001DP-BM  20" box fan,  3M MERV 6  filter   and one   MERV 11 filter    (stacked)

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#8     Holmes HBF 2001DP-BM 20" box fan,  3M MERV 6  filter and one MERV 11 filter (stacked).  The 3M MERV 11 filter is not shown in the picture but it was stacked inside of the MERV 6 filter.  This setup brought the particle count down to 30,000 in 65 to 75 minutes putting it in 7th place out of the 10 tests.  I ran the test twice without cleaning the filters in between and the  it took 10 minutes longer to clear the air in the second test.  This was likely due to a lower flow rate as the filters clogged with dust.

An interesting note about these results is that this system moves about the same CFM as the WEN 3410 and was only slightly more efficient at removing particles > 0.5 microns (outlet concentration/inlet concentration) but it performed about twice as well as the WEN.    Looking at these two numbers one would expect them to take about the same amount of time to clear the air.  So, why did it clear the air more than 50% faster than the WEN?  If you have any theories feel free to discuss them in the comments.  

Box fans pull  a LOT of air  into the front as well as blowing air out.  This makes it somewhat difficult to obtain reliable air flow rate readings.  It is possible that the air flow test readings were underestimating what was really occuring.  The efficiency readings are in line with the filter specifications so I believe that number is accurate.  Considering the profound difference in how quickly this system pulled particle counts down compared to the WEN it would be interesting to know exactly why.

This configuration is certainly the lowest cost and it is the easiest to implement.  For this test I used silicone box fan filter grips  to secure the filters to the fan.  You can also simply use duct tape to save a few  dollars and to gain a little bit more performance.

As I mentioned earlier, after completing these tests I found a set of flow-curves for furnace filters with various MERV ratings online.  To my surprise, some of the higher rated filters had LOWER flow resistance.    See Figure 3  for reference.  For this reason, if you want to use this setup I recommend using a   single   Filtrete MPR 1900  20x24x1 filter .  It will flow more air and  catch even more of  the small particles than the filters used in my testing.


​


​#7 ,   $198
Honeywell 50250-S True HEPA Air Purifier

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#7   The   Honeywell 50250-S True HEPA Air Purifier   is a true HEPA rated air filtration system designed for home use.    As the test results indicate this system captures 100% of all of the particles my system can measure.   The HEPA standard calls for the capture of 99.97% of all particles > 0.3 microns.  I included this unit in the test to see how the performance of a home air filtration system compares to a workshop and DIY air filtration systems.  To my surprise it barely surpassed the $37 box fan system.

To be fair, this HEPA filtration system will remove  some particles that a furnace filter can't such as very small smoke particles as well as some allergens that are too small for furnace filters.  However, for  most particles of concern the  box fan and floor   fan setups will outperform this system by a very wide margin.

The Honeywell system was slightly quieter than most of the systems tested by not by a noticeable margin.


#6,   $128
​The Shop Hacks 4 Filter System
 Single Stage Filtration System
With 2-year-old (dirty) filters!!


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#6   This system probably would have ranked #1 if I had installed clean filters but I wanted to test the Shop Hacks Downdraft Single Stage 4-filter System to see how a system with 2-year-old, dirty filters compared.   They haven't been swept clean in over 6 months and were used "as-is".  I designed this system to have ultra low pressure drop so that the flow rate doesn't change much as the filters get dirty.  The pressure drop across an air filter is proportional to the square of the speed of the air flowing through it.   A system with 2 filters should have 1/4th as much pressure drop at the same flow rate as a single filter system.  A system with 4 filters has 1/16th as much pressure drop   at the same flow rate as a single filter system!    Axial fans  produce less than a maximum of 0.2 in-wc of pressure.  To compare, a squirrel cage furnace blower produces closer to a maximum of 1.25 in-wc which is approximately 5x as much pressure as an axial fan.    For that reason it is possible to use less filter area for a squirrel cage blower  and still get the same flow rate as an axial fan.  The flow rate of a squirrel cage blower system drops off less than an axial fan system as the filters get dirty.  Quadrupling the filter area allows the axial fan to perform better than a squirrel cage blower.



​This will give you a feel for just how dirty the filters on this unit are.  I was surprised that it still removed 80% of the particles >0.5 microns and flowed over 1100 CFM even after 2 years of 24/7 use on the original filters. 
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At 60 minutes to bring particle counts below 30,000, this system came in mid pack.    I was quite surprised to see that the filters were still operating at 80% efficiency for particles > 0.5 microns after two years on the original filters.  I've swept them clean a few times  over the two year period but the filters were not cleaned prior to this test.  This says a lot for the   longevity of furnace filters.    With  that said, this is by no means a conclusive test for dirty furnace filter performance.  However, it is one encouraging data point.  As I mentioned earlier, the only way you can be sure what works and what doesn't is to purchase a particle counter and test your shop and home air yourself.  Using a particle counter allows you to see  the invisible, and with that information you will be able to make rational, verifiable, incremental changes until your air is always clean and safe.

If you plan to reproduce this system I recommend using the   Lasko 20" High Velocity Fan 2264QM   fan and 4  of the  3M Filtrete MPR 1900 filters.


​#5,   $500
​Powermatic PM1200

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#5       Powermatic PM1200 - This is a very popular model put out by Powermatic, a very reputable company known for quality products.  It is also the most expensive model tested, coming in at $500.  We wanted to include a top of the line mainstream retail system to serve as a baseline  to compare  the other systems.  The PM 1200 uses a squirrel cage blower that  flows around 865 CFM on high with the front grill and diffuser removed.  Powermatic claims 1200 CFM .  I measured  1200 CFM with both filters removed.  It is not uncommon for manufacturers to overstate performance by testing in an off-nominal configuration.  The system includes two filters.  The outer filter (prefilter) is similar to a pleated furnace filter and is rated to capture particles  5 microns and larger.  The inner filter is a bag filter rated to capture particles 1 micron and larger.  However, according to the test results it was quite effective at capturing particles down to 0.5 microns, the limit of the laser particle counter used.  The unit tested is a 2 year old system.  I cleaned both filters thoroughly with compressed air prior to testing.  

With the diffuser installed the PM 1200 took 41 minutes to clear the air.  It was much more effective without the diffuser, taking  a mere 30 minutes to clear the air.  That's  a 30% improvement by simply removing the diffuser!  

The diffuser does absolutely nothing to filter the air.  It only exists to lower the air velocity.  The diffuser prevents  high velocity  air from stirring up more dust in your shop.  However, it creates a significant pressure drop that significantly lowers the flow rate.  I suggest removing the diffuser if  the high velocity exit air stream doesn't  negatively impact your workflow.

If I had this unit I would ditch the stock prefilter and I would build a frame to allow use of a Filtrete MPR 1900  20x24x1 filter as the prefilter.  This will increase the filtration efficiency greatly  while  also increasing the flow rate  by at least another  150 CFM compared to the stock pre filter.

​


​#4, $38

20" fan drawing air in a window + a 20" fan blowing air out the door
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 #4      One   20" fan drawing air in a window + a 20" fan blowing air out the door ​ -  Simply placing one fan in a window drawing fresh air in from the outside and one fan in an open door blowing dusty air outside worked well.    However, surprisingly,  this did not outperform some of the air filtration systems.  One caveat to note for this test... the condition used to determine the time required to reach "good" air quality is when the particle count  drops below 30,000 particles per cubic foot.    During the time of testing, the outside air particle count was 36,000 so it was impossible to ever reach the "good" air quality mark using this method.  This system was ranked #4 based on the time required to drop the particle concentration below the "very unhealthy"  lower limit of 300,000 particles per cubic foot.

If you never use heat or air conditioning in your workshop then using a large fan to draw in fresh air and opening a door or window to allow dirty air to escape will be a very effective method of clearing your shop air.  This is contingent on the quality of the outside air and the flow rate of the fan(s) you used to accomplish this.    If your shop is heated or air conditioned then this method is very impractical.

Note:  When you draw air in you much provide a way for the air to escape freely or the fan will not move much air into the space.  An open window or door to allow air to flow out will suffice for most cases.





#3
The Shop Hacks Downdraft Table
4-Stage Filtration System
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#3 The Shop Hacks Downdraft Table 4-Stage Filtration System was the  only surpassed by the Lasko  2264QM V-configuration system.  I use this system as a multi-function table/workbench, a downdraft table,  a dust collection system for my table saw and a shop air filtration system.  It uses a 1200 CFM squirrel cage furnace blower and a 4 stage filtration system.  The first stage is a cheap 1" fiberglass  filter that is used to catch the large dust particles so I can sweep them off when the pressure drop gets beyond a certain limit.  The second stage is a 4" MERV 12 filter.  The 3rd and 4th stages are two MPR 1900 filters.  One of them is at the outlet of the blower to diffuse the airflow so it doesn't stir up dust in the shop.

This system moves about 600 CFM in this configuration.  It would perform better as a shop air filtration system if I only used 2 stages of filters.  However, since it is used as a dust collection and downdraft system it often sees very high concentrations of dust and I wanted to ensure that it would put out clean air even in the worst case conditions, which it does.  Using multiple stages of filtration also allows the higher MERV filters to last longer before needing to be cleaned.  I've been using this system over two years now and had only cleaned the last 3 stages of filters a couple of times prior to this test.  I replaced the second stage filter for this test.

It is best to use a squirrel cage blower for  multiple stage filtration systems.  Squirrel cage blowers produce up to 1.3 in-wc of pressure compared  to a max of about 0.12 in-wc for a 20" box fan.  The extra available pressure means that a system that uses a squirrel cage blower will lose less air flow as the filters get dirty than a system that uses axial fans and the same filter area.  



#2 ,   $85
​Lasko 20" High Velocity Fan 2264QM   with 2 sets of 3M MERV 6  filter and one MERV 11 filter (stacked)
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#2  Lasko 20" High Velocity Fan 2264QM   with 2 sets of one    3M MERV 6  filter   and one   MERV 11 filter (stacked).   This setup performed better than any other air filtration system in the test.  It was only topped by the test using my dust collection system.   ​
The V-Filter configuration was used for this test setup.  The V-Filter splits the flow between two sets of filters so the air velocity flowing through each set is  half that of the same system using only one set of filters.
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At $85 this system is a no brainer for anyone who has the space to fit the V-filter configuration and who doesn't mind a little bit of fabrication.    I simply cut three cardboard panels and duct taped everything together for this test.  That is all you need for a completely function system.  However, in a future article I'll expand on this idea to show you how to build a high quality system that looks and performs even better than this one.

Based on the information I noted in   Figure 3  regarding the superior flow and filtration performance of the   Filtrete MPR 1900  20x24x1 filter  , I recommend building  this system with that filter rather than the  filters I used in this test.  The performance should improve measurably and the system will drop another $20 also.

​

 Adding a 1200 CFM recirculation fan didn't make a measurable  difference in filtration efficiency.
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This system brought the particle count down to 30,000 in 27 minutes with and without   the recirculation fan.  I expected this would be the case because the very fine dust particles disperse  more like gasses than particles so they pretty much fill the space evenly regardless of how air is circulated.  This is not a definitive  test since I only tested one recirculation configuration and the recirculation fan was used on the second test  in which the filters had been loaded slightly from the first test.  However, considering the curves overlapped almost exactly with and without a recirculation fan, I doubt that any recirculation pattern will make a significant difference.​
The BEST and the WORST performers of the tests...
​Best of Test - Dust Collection -ON-         Air Filtration Systems -OFF-
 ---AND---
​Worst of Test - Dust Collection -OFF-         Air Filtration Systems -OFF-
The best results of all of the testing came from running my dust collection system.  Even after cutting twice as many boards as with any other test and with NO air filtration systems running the particle counts never moved out of the "good" air quality range.    The results are illustrated in Figure 5 below.
I ran tests on two other setups to serve as baselines.   They are...
1.  With dust collection only
2.  With no dust collection or air filtration


​Effective dust collection trumps effective air filtration because it is always MUCH easier to remove dust one inch away from the source than it is to remove it from the entire room.
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Figure 5  – Effective Dust Collection is   Imperative​
As you can see, using effective dust collection worked so well that I didn't even need to turn the air filtration systems on for this test even though I ran 2x as much material through the saw.  That's not to say that you should not use dust collection and air filtration systems in your workshop.  There are times when you just can't capture all of the dust at the source.  In those times the particle concentrations can rise quite high and having an air filtration system will bring them down  quicker which means you breath less dust in between cuts.

With no dust collection and no air filtration the shop air particle concentration remained in the dangerously high range for many hours.  Imagine making cuts one after another without dust collection or air filtration.  When I first bought my  Dylos DC1100 Pro laser particle counter   I routinely saw particle counts rise over the 6-million mark!  That's 6x higher than the highest level shown in any of the graphs for these tests.  There's no telling what I was doing to my lungs and body during all of those years.  Hopefully the effects can reverse, similar to the way smokers negative symptoms often  cease after they quit smoking.  Either way I know that I'm breathing healthy air now  and I rarely have to clean up dust in my shop which is a great side benefit.

All that to say, don't count on an air filtration system to replace effective dust collection.  In future articles I'll show you how to get nearly 100% effective dust collection on just about any tool in your shop with a simple and inexpensive shop vac.  Be sure to subscribe to the Shop Hacks newsletter HERE if you want to receive those articles.
Conclusions and Recommendations 
Empower Yourself - technical deep dive
(you can skip this section if you don't care to understand the "whys")



​For visual learners, a picture is worth a thousand words.    The graph shows one blower curve, one fan curve, one curve for the PM 1200 2-filter system without the front diffuser installed and one curve representing a 20x25x1" MERV 11 furnace filter from 3M.  
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Figure 6   – Blowers and Fans Have  Very Different Flow Curves
For those who may be interested, let me explain how to read the graph in Figure 5.    The orange line that starts at around 1.3 on the vertical axis and slopes down to 1200 on the  horizontal axis represents how the Powermatic PM 1200 blower performs.  If you block the inlet or outlet completely off that represents 0 CFM.  At 0 CFM you can see that the pressure is around 1.3  in-wc.  The dark curve sloping upwards in the middle of the graph represents the PM 1200 2 filter system flow curve.  The point where it intersects the orange curve is the operating point of  865 CFM and about 1.0 in-wc.  (In-wc stands for "inches of water column".  1 psi =  27.7 in-wc or 1 in-wc = 0.0036 psi.)  The upward sloping curve under that one represents the flow curve for a 20x25x1" MERV 11 3M furnace filter.  If you were to replace the two filters in the PM 1200 system with that furnace filter it would operate at around 1100 CFM and 0.3 in-wc.

The blue downward sloping curve near the bottom of the graph is the flow curve for the Holmes 20" box fan.  As you can see its maximum pressure is about 1/10th as much as the PM 1200 but when there is no resistance to flow it flows almost 1200  CFM also.  However, adding a 20x25x1" MERV 11 filter will drop the flow down to  just under 600 CFM.  As the filter gets dirty, its flow curve gets steeper which causes the fan to drop in flow rate faster than the blower.  This is why blowers are most often used in air filtration systems.  However, one way around this problem is to increase the filter area.  Doubling the filter area reduces the resistance to 1/4th.  Quadrupling the filter area reduces the resistance to 1/16th!  Once you get into that range  an axial fan can outperform a squirrel cage blower using 1/10th the pressure and 1/10th the power.

For reference
A typical  1.5 hp (10 Amp, 110V, 1100W) dust collector can move about 800 cfm with no resistance and produces a maximum static pressure of about 14 in-wc.

A typical full size shop vac  (12 Amp, 110V, 1300W)  can move about 200 cfm with no resistance and produces a maximum static pressure of over 100 in-wc.
Products  Used In These Tests
A Laser particle counter allows you to run your own tests to see where your dust is coming from and to optimize your dust collection and air filtration systems.  This particle counter will pay for itself many times over by allowing you to build your own dust collection systems without having to spend hundreds of dollars more for each system.
​

Dylos DC1100 Pro laser particle counter (Highly Recommended, measures down to 0.5 micron particles)
Dylos DC100 laser particle counter    (Recommended, lower cost but only measures  down to  1 micron particles)​
​
Holmes HBF2001DP-BM 20-Inch Box Fan (NOT recommended.   Although it puts out a little more air than the Pelonis, the cheap quality and rear mounted cord and controls make it more difficult to use)

3M MPR 1550 (MERV 13) filter 6 pack (Highly recommended for single filter box fan air filtration setup.  This will probably perform even better than the filters used during testing)
Filtrete 20x20x1 MPR 300 filter 6-pack (Used as pre filters in DIY filter tests.  Not recommended because they have as much pressure drop as the higher rated filters so they don't add much value.  However, they are very inexpensive and you can sweep them off without damaging them)
Filtrete 20x20x1, AC Furnace Air Filter, MPR 1200, Allergen Defense Odor Reduction, 2-Pack (these were used in the testing for this article.  They worked very well but I would recommend the 3M 1550 MPR filters over these since the 3M filters have less pressure drop)
Silicone box fan filter grips (I used these for the box fan filter tests.  They are recommended for simplicity of use)
Cardboard magnetic filter holder  (I didn't use this but it may be worth looking at if you you like a more finished look.  It certainly is not required to obtain good performance)

Retail air filtration systems and components tested 
Powermatic PM1200  air filtration system
PM1200 Inner Filter
PM1200 Pre Filter

WEN 3410   air filtration system
WEN 90243-027-2 5-Micron Outer Air Filters, 2-Pack
WEN 90243-026-2 1-Micron Inner Air Filters, 2-Pack

Honeywell 50250-S True HEPA Air Purifier
Honeywell 50250-S HEPA filter
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By buying products listed in this article (affiliate links) you don't pay any extra but Shop Hacks receives a small commission from Amazon which helps support the creation of more content to help you Build Your Space.  Thank you for your support.  Shop Hacks was not sponsored by any companies so you can be sure that all of the results in this article are completely unbiased.
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